Resolved CPU Temp Help

When you do a rebuild, just start with the basics. When you are sure it is stable and you have tested it, then you can add any extras (and test those).

 

Thats what I was wondering if I should keep 2 dvd drives in my computer when i rebuild it or not take it and have only one.

 

Just for my two cents worth, this is a great Case.

http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/cooler_master_cm_690_II_advanced_case_review/

 

well that case does look good but there a few features i would change on that one and on the Corsair case too if I could.

 

How are your plans going?

Have you done any more experiments on your current case? Your current system should work (very) adequately if it is set up correctly. Have you put some thought into air flows? If the graphics adapter temperatures seem reasonable, you might to try blocking off the side vent. I would also try reducing the top fan speed, so that more air could be drawn out the back fan.

For all the increased airflows, the CPU temperature is very dependent on the thermal compound between the CPU and the heatsink. If there is an air bubble trapped in the compound, that is probably the main reason why you cannot achieve "good" temperatures [and if the air flows are correct, for example, if you have tied the cables away out of the flows].

The Antec appears to be quite a good gaming case. You are doing 3D work, a little different, but basically requiring the same cooling system.

If you want to try to make your current system work correctly, you could try taking the heatsink off the CPU and replacing the thermal compound. It is not a simple process, more of an art. You would have to research how to do it.

You can replace the heatsink with the Corsair. That would not be much of a challenge to me. You can improve your experience level if you would like to try changing the thermal compound. You seem to have done research already.

You can "buy" a good system or try to make it yourself.

Matt

 

I have been told that to use a different optical drive with Sata cable to free up a few things for air flow and I also will only need one too which will cut down on heat and create more airflow. I also thinking maybe just going to the air cooled one for the cost if I go with another case. I used Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste and yes we made sure there was no air bubble. I would have to do that anyways if I do decide to buy the air cooler instead of the water cooler and I also seen how to from experienced computer builders.

 

Worth looking at, you might be interested in a alternative.
hawk22

 

You are researching very well! I don't remember anybody else mentioning Arctic Silver 5.

Applying thermal compound is an "art ", your first attempts might not be very successful, but how do you learn apart from trying it yourself?

If you want to (clean off) and re-apply a new layer of thermal compound like Arctic Silver 5 or another brand, go into the BIOS immediately afterwards and check the temperature/s.

*Your aim is to apply the thinnest layer of compound, that has no air bubbles trapped in it.

Me, I have been in your situation. I decided to try replacing the thermal compound. My first attempts were not very successful, but I got there.

Do your research before you take the plunge. Also, read the instructions

You won't know if you don't try

Matt

 

If you have not yet researched this, it is worth studying. I am sure Matt has had a glance through it at some time.

http://arcticsilver.com/instructions.htm

hawk22

 

For the ultimate cooling look at lapping your heat-sink.

http://www.devhardware.com/c/a/PC-Cooling/Heat-Sink-Lapping/

hawk22

 

I've seen that tutorial before, and others like it and think they are a bunch of hogwash. The theory of lapping is sound, but to do it right, it MUST be done in a precision machine shop with precision tools by an experienced machinist. It also should be done to both mating surfaces, not just one.

Even cheap heatsinks are machined, using sophisticated, computer guided cutting, planing, and polishing tools, and these do-it-yourself lapping procedures have you use a $3 hand-held block of molded rubber from Walmart, or Autozone. Hardly a precision tool that certainly is not perfectly flat or have consistent density for uniform pressure needed for precision lapping. Nor can any human operating it ensure perfectly uniform pressure across the surface. Just the fact it is rubber means it squish unevenly.

The 3° before and after drop in temps does not surprise me, however, because I also believe that before is with an OEM thermal paraffin pad while the after is with a carefully applied layer of a quality thermal interface material (TIM). In other words, the 3° drop can most likely be attributed to the use of a better TIM, rather than lapping with a hand-held $3 block of molded rubber.

Other tutorials I have seen at least stress the use of something perfectly flat and ungiving, like a thick piece of tempered coffee table glass. In that case, you put the paper on the glass, grit side up, and hold the the heatsink and CPU upside down on the paper while rubbing in circles, then this way then that. I think with a cheap heatsink, or one that someone has taken a flat tip screwdriver too (that was horrible advice, IMO - you should use nothing tougher than your thumbnail) and scratched it, then this glass top method of lapping might help.

Sorry Hawk - sound idea, bad application of it.

 

Thanks for the Arctic instructions link Hawk, the last time I looked there, the instructions seemed to be "watered-down" and didn't tell you the basic aims of the application. They seem to have more basic and "instructional" information now. For the "best" thermal compound available, they should tell you all the variables involved.

I use the OEM heatsinks, I find them very acceptable. I will reapply my own layer of thermal compound if the temperatures seem high.

Chaosmachine420, just something I've thought about. I can't find where you said what major programs you use. If you do editing, you should edit a file from one HDD and put the finished file another HDD. The CPU will do a lot of work if it has to open the file on one HDD, edit it, then save it to the same HDD, the incoming and outgoing data will be going along the same channel.

Matt

 

Your welcome Matt, Bill, to be brutally honest with you, I have been lapping heatsinks off and on for the last 10 years, when I have surfaces that look less than satisfactory to me and at this very moment I have an "Arctic 64 Freezer Pro" that I am not happy with, personally I have never used the block method myself I use a piece of plate glass and Gaffer Tape to secure the paper and for a smother move I also apply a few drops of dish-washing liquit onto the wet and dry I do not use it dry wet only and it takes me about 2 - 3 hours to do the job.
And yes I do believe of obtaining around 3ºC lower temps I only use my own TIM and not the stuff that comes with a new heat-sink.
I have learned lapping from a very dedicated Overclocker that swears by it. Unfortunately he is no longer with us.
I look at it a little bit like that, My Doctor has a wall full of degrees, and does not believe in Herbal Medicine, my wifes Doctor also has a wall full of degrees, but he does believe in Herbal medicine and so do I.

Matt, which method do you use yourself when applying the compound, the blob or the smoothing over (Credit Card) or I have heard some believe in a rubber gloved finger.
So far I have only used the credit card method, but when I have lapped this Arctic Cooler I will give the blob in the middle a try, just to see.
cheers
hawk the Lapper from Lappland

Yes Bill I totally agree with you, for best results both surfaces should be lapped. But in my case after irreparably bending a few pins on a $150- CPU a somewhat more conservative approach appeals to me now.

 

Sorry to say, but I use the instructions I have used several silver-based products and others, like white ones, I would like to test them all I haven't replaced the OEM AMD thermal compound on this computer and my temps are 29, 33*C (2 cores) with 40 or so webpages and a few sundry programs open. They might be higher in summer

I like testing rather than using a rigid method. I have been surprised by some compounds that I didn't think would be impressive.

I look at the System Requirements of the programs that would be running and make sure the system will meet the requirements, but I am going back over what I said previously.

Reducing the temperature by several degrees is not my aim, making sure the system is adequate and working correctly is. Blob or credit card is not my ultimate goal, I want a system to work "always ". If the system should run with an Intel i5 CPU, but you put in an i3, you might want to find that "added extra ", I would put in an i5 to begin with.

I don't see our role here as how well we can make thermal compound or heatsinks work, Chaosmachine420 seems to have temperature problems without any major modification.

Matt

 

Well i have been looking for new cases to with better cable management and better airflow. I have found a few that have all of what I need but only one comes with a modular power supply.
COOLER MASTER Storm Sniper
COOLER MASTER Haf 932 Black
COOLER MASTER Haf 932
Thermaltake Element G
Thermaltake Element G with Power Supply

 

Its not only the air flow its the cable management on the Antec its not the greatest right away and i dont feel like modding it.So I rather get a new one for now to to make it easier and already made and reviewed to work right. There a few features on these newer cases that are better then the antec i have also. So I am just trying to get the right one for right now.

 

Can I say Christer and I might agree

Have you tackled trying to replace the thermal compound? You should have startup temperatures around 30*C or better.

You seem to be concentrating on cabling, although if you get the bulk of the cables away from the major air flows, it should work "normally ". If it doesn't seem to work normally now, when your case is quite a good one, you might only improve the temperature a few degrees. Would that be enough?

Your selections for a new case look good, but I am not going to say one is better than the other. Do they have the qualities that you would need? Look at how they work air-flow. As I said, I wouldn't want one that draws air up through the base because I have carpet. That would be a factor I would consider. You might need to consider other factors. For example, how much heat is your graphics outputting, where is the heat going?

If you go to other websites, you might find somebody that says "Get that one, it is really good ", members here tend to give you their recommendations. I would digest their recommendations and look for other recommendations myself. Have I mentioned research?

Controlling temperature is THE biggest factor in building a cutting-edge computer, but it sounds like you want one that just works "normally ", because you are not subjecting it to extreme conditions.

You have narrowed down the selection to 5. If I couldn't choose, I would start reading reviews. One of those links has user reviews of 5 out of 5 with over 1500 reviews. I might look for any negative reviews and find out if any of those reviews applied to my circumstance.

You can run a websearch to find professional or semi-professional reviews of hardware. The result might have technical details, you will need to research those details, the depth of research will be up to you and how well it satisfies your curiosity. I don't want to be a computer temperature expert, I would (very much) like to have enough background/experience/research to try and answer questions about temperature on this website.

Matt

 

Well I went with a Cooler Master Haf X case and the Prolimatech Megahalems Rev.B CPU Cooler and 2 Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 120mm fans. I got my temps down to 12 c at certain point.

 

Oh? Note that unless you are using alternative cooling that provides refrigeration, 12°C (53.6°F) is not likely. Fans, regardless the heatsink, cannot cool a device cooler than the ambient (room) temperature. So you may need to try a different monitoring program.