Resolved CPU Temp Help

Matt, would it be any help getting Chaosmachine420 to install "Everest Ultimate "? When you open it and put it in the Task Bar, it shows all the running temps and voltages. Neil.

 

i have something like that too but its a program they have for the motherboard its a built in probe i guess but my starting up temp are 42c for cpu and 27c for mb.

 

Nice suggestion Neil. You got me checking SIW and Sandra, but they don't offer the same thing, SIW can log the sensors and offers maximum (recorded) temps.

Getting Windows installed correctly will be the next step. If the drivers and Intel utilities are working well, maybe the temperatures will stabilise. I would still like to see it (quite a bit) lower in the BIOS. The motherboard temp seems reasonably good and suggests that the air flow seems "adequate ". Chaosmachine420, check that the air flow is through the case, generally from bottom-front to top-back. Sometimes the fans can be installed backwards and cause pockets of overheated air. Are there bunches of cables blocking the flow of air?

When you get Windows working, check that the temperature sensor readout in Windows matches (approximately) the readout in the BIOS. Check the temps when you get to the Windows desktop. As I said, the CPU fan might run at "high" in the BIOS, but the Intel utilities will set it to "low "in Windows to save power and reduce noise.

In Windows, run your "heavy duty" programs, run them hard and follow the temperatures (You have found their System Requirements?). The information said "Max Tcase: 72.7ºC (162.86ºF) ". You could run at 72.6*C forever and that would be in spec. It will be detrimental for your CPU though. [By the way, thanks for working in Celsius not Fahrenheit.]

I would check the CPU system shutdown temperature in the BIOS and reduce it if there is a concern about temperature. You will need to remember that if the system shuts down unexpectedly, that will likely be the cause.

When you have Windows up and running well, check through those things I have suggested in the previous posts.

I don't want to mention that there might be a problem with how the heatsink was connected over the CPU chip. That would be the last thing to check, because once you take the heatsink off the CPU, you need to replace the thermal compound between them. Replacing the thermal compound should be done very carefully.

Ask your friend that helped you build the system to come back and check it for you. You could show him this thread, I would be sure he would like to investigate.

About the "seating" of the heatsink...I have seen and experienced myself, suggestions that all the lock-down posts on the heatsink may not be fully engaged.

An air bubble might be trapped in the thermal transfer compound between the CPU and heatsink. Air is an insulating material. You might be able to press and "wiggle" the heatsink to force the air bubble out. Don't press hard enough that it might crack the motherboard.

Ask your friend to take it to his class or lecturer to look at it.

Matt

 

So SIW would be a good thing to record and see the temps while I work on the programs to make sure I am with in reason of the temps you would like to see. I doing that now either ill go with Vista again or 7 but I need to know tho if I go with 64bit would that change the temps I need. I'll look into the air flow but I am pretty sure that they are flowing right but if i moved my hard drives down maybe that will give more air flow and cooler air to the CPU. The wire management in this case is not too good so there are a lot of wires everywhere and I would like to fix it as much as possible without having to modify the case if I don't have to. The I am going to run it with the one of the projects that will have hard time on the CPU. I can say that it does help to get an idea of the temp more in Fahrenheit because it seems like 42 isn't till u look at 107f then it feels like it could be lower. I know not to do that unless I'm absolutely sure my heat sink needs to be change or properly put on again but I can say we made sure it was on there right he put the stuff down and locked it in and picked up to see if there was any contact missing and there was none and the post are securely down. The class part tho is over with its only a semester class since because it is a Community College. I am tho still trying to figure out tho to what operating system to go with again so I have to stick with what I have till i figure out my ram problem too. If you can help there to get an OS soon then tell me I can link you to it.

 

The svchost problem is probably due to running the Cyberpower version of Windows. I don't think measuring temperatures will be assured as accurate until you install a normal version of Windows.

I have Vista, but if I was to build a new system I would look at going to Windows 7. Windows 7 will have a longer service life. The downside might be that if you have say, an older printer or other devices, there won't be drivers available to run it/them. Some older programs might not be compatible with Windows 7, even using Compatibility Mode. You might find some "sticking points ", like finding drivers, using 64bit, they are slowly being overcome.

You could ask where you purchased the motherboard if it is not too late to buy an OEM version of Windows. The requirement for OEM Windows is that it is sold with a new computer/motherboard. You might need to quote the invoice number for the purchase of the motherboard.

You might find logging or monitoring the maximum temperature in SIW helpful. I would check that the temps correlate with the Asus supplied program.

You don't have to modify much in the case. Just get some ties, like cable ties or you can get small Velcro ones if you want them to be reusable. Tie the cables away out of the air flow.

If you can work in Celsius it would be good for me, because I have been using it for many years. Most websites use it.

As I said, you could try pressing the heatsink down and wiggling it if there is any give/movement. That might work out any air bubbles trapped in the thermal compound.

Matt

 

I downloaded the compatibility program it only said my video card wasn't found but thats because I think the driver needs to be for Windows 7. I know my printer works because I have a laptop that uses Windows 7. OEM isn't the best for me I reformat my computer more then anything. I cant see how to do it tho with my tower.

 

I don't think it is fair to make a blanket statement that one brand of CPU runs hotter than the other. And certainly, with Intels dominance since the introduction of the Core 2 Duo and in 32nm and 45nm offerings, lower voltage requirements generally mean less waste - which translates to less heat so I am sure there are many who would disagree with the comment made earlier.

Nevertheless, regardless the CPU of choice, 60°C is the accepted temperature among experts industry wide for which all CPUs should remain under. Regardless the maker, if you exceed that temperature, chances are stability issues will arise.

To stay under that temperature, however, is not difficult, with a few simple precautions:

1. Use a properly applied layer of TIM (thermal interface material),
2. Keep the computer (vents, heat sinks, fans, and boards) free of heat trapping dust,
3. Ensure the case provides a constant, unrestricted, front-to-back flow of cool air,
4. Don't overclock.​

 

I would like to know too if this thermal paint for motorcycles would help even more. All thats good till the overclocking part you can just need to warn it puts out heat so that you would either go with air cooled but not the stock cooler that comes with the cpu or liquid cooled. The water cooled i have found there is a new one that makes it so you dont have to do anything it provides only cold liquid to ur cpu no where else but other complicated ones that could leak do.

 

Huh? Paint? I know of no paint that is designed to transfer heat. Thermal paint for motorcycles is designed to not burn up from heat (and hot gases) from the exhaust or engine.

I don't understand your point about overclocking. You only quoted part of what I said. I said that if you don't overclock, and you also follow the other 3 suggestions, it is simple to maintain cool temps.

But to your comment about water cooling, the problem with water cooling is something else you said, it provides cooling only to the CPU. Note that motherboard designers cluster other heat sensitive devices around the CPU. This, among other reasons, is so they too can take advantage of the air movement from the CPU's fan. When you water cool, there is a significant risk the chipset, regulator circuits, and other nearby devices can overheat.

 

I was told that paint one the engines tho make it so there is more surface to release the heat quicker. For the liquid cooling tho u still ahve the air flow just now u dont have to worry about your CPU over heating tho and those other parts are alest far enough away from the CPU alot of the time that it gets cool faster.

 

Who told you that nonsense? An auto mechanic? Or an electronics technician? Got a link?

I don't think you understand the purpose of thermal interface materials (TIM). The purpose of TIM is to ensure all the microscopic pits and valleys in the CPU die and heatsink mating surfaces are void of heat trapping air, an insulator, maximizing surface to surface contact. Any excess is too much and gets in the way, and can actually be counterproductive to the heat transfer process. Not even the best TIM can transfer heat better than direct surface to surface contact. So in a perfect world, you want NOTHING between the CPU die and the heatsink. BUT until mankind can create perfection, there will always be impurities in the die and heatsink materials, and imperfections in the mating surfaces that allow insulating air to be trapped. You only want to get rid of the air, no more. So a you use a very thin layer of TIM, which is designed specifically for electronics - not paint designed for automotive purposes.

 

The paint would be on the heat sink out the outside where all fins are to disapate the heat faster so i wouldnt need the bigger heat sinks.

 

That still does not make sense. You are adding a covering to something designed to radiate heat. Don't do it! It is a bad idea! If it created a better heatsink, all heatsinks would be painted. I've been an electronics technician for almost 40 years and I have never seen or heard of anyone painting heat radiating devices except those exposed to the weather to keep them from corroding - as in the case of a car outdoors.

There is nothing you can put on bare metal that will allow it to radiate heat faster, except cool flowing air.

 

I cant be too sure it wasn't it but i looked and it doesn't dissipate the heat like i thought.

 

That probably is not the fault of the heatsink.

Assuming:

1. That heatsink fan assembly (HSF) was designed for that CPU,
2. The CPU is not being overstress by abuse (overclocking),
3. You have a proper layer of thermal insulating material (TIM) between the mating surfaces,
4. The CPU fan is working properly,
5. The heatsink is not damaged,
6. The heatsink is clean of heat trapping dust.

...if the CPU is still too hot, your case is not providing the necessary or adequate front to back air flow. You need to ensure good cable management so cables are routed to minimize impacting air flow. Replace any flat ribbon cables with round cables of the proper lenth. Add more fans. I prefer at least one 120mm fan in front drawing cool air in, and at least one 120mm fan in the back (not counting the PSU fan) exhausting hot air out.

 

I'm going to have to maybe lower down my hard drives to get the air flow with to the CPU with cooler air. I cant say for sure right now most of my heat is from being summer but it does help that im in a basement which is a bit cooler.

 

No doubt if the ambient (room) temperature is high, that makes cooling that much more of a problem. Note I added #6 to my list above. Keeping the interior of the case clean of dust is essential.

What are your temps?

If your case does not support more (or larger) fans, and all of the items in the list above are good, then remove the case's side panel and blast a deskfan in there.

And note drives can get hot too. While they block flow, they take advantage of it too.

 

To get all my cords out of the way is there an extender cord for a 4 pin power to be able to connect to my motherboard without any trouble. Would suggest i remove everything before i do maybe make holes if i have to route the cables on the side of the case.

 

Well, it is impossible to not have some wires in the way, I don't know that making new holes in the case is that necessary. But if you do go that route, then do make sure you take everything out of the case first, then make 200% sure there no metal filings left behind. Even a very tiny one can short out critical circuits.

 

Well my case doesnt have many routing holes but i was looking at the Corsair 600t case which has more places to put cords around and ill get that one since its cheaper and safer then doing wut i was going to d.