3000+ with 266 fsb?

Sven, sounds promising!

The readouts I would check are the CPUid and the readouts for the processor speed in the BIOS. Only use Everest as a guide.

2200Mzh is the speed setting for a 3200+ processor. You would only need to set the multiplier at 16.0 if you wish to run at the manufacturer's recommended setting.

Check your temperatures.

Does it seem stable, ie. no lockup/freezes or shutdowns?

Just suggest to proceed with caution from there. When you feel confident...put the spurs in! .

Post back if something does not look right.

Matt

 

Matt,

I changed the setting to 15 and when I do that it changes the readout in CPUID accordingly.

16 = 2149.11
15 = 2008.69
14 = 1874.62


So I think this is working.

I was playing games and using word and surf the net and had no problem.

I will keep it at 14 for now and make sure the temperature stays down. Everest reports 54 c or 129 F well within the parameters.

Lets hope that this did it.
Thanks
Sven

 

Keep an eye on that temperature, especially if it shoots up during something like 3D games. You are now running more intensive hardware.

Put your hand at the back of the case where the heated air is exhausted. If it seems rather warm you may need to look at improving the air flow through the case to reduce overall temperatures (also if the "system" temperature is close to the CPU temperature). See if more case fans can be mounted. The air flow should be IN at the (bottom) front of the case and the heated air exhausted at the (top) back of the case.

Matt

 

Matt,

I found another little utility.
It is called "Central Brain Identifierâ€.
I found it the same place "“ Major geeks / Processors

This one lets you set the multiplier to 24.
I will not do that, of cause.
It also shows (under Mobility) the temperature, which is a 28 C
when I set the multiplier to 14.
Check it out and tell me what you think

By the way, the air coming out of my case feels kind of cool.
So, I take it the system is getting cooled properly?


Sven

 

Sven, I don't have experience of those types of utilities. I would advise that you tread cautiously. Accidentally setting the multiplier to 24 would cause dramatic problems (hopefully the computer would shutdown before any damage, but many have also been "blown-up "). At least with RightMark utility the maximum setting is within the limits of the CPU/motherboard and appears to do what you need it to do.

I would decide on one or the other and uninstall the one that you do not want. You do not want them "fighting" for control of the multiplier. I would not run many utilities at once that would effect the basic system "controls ".

The best temperature indicator is the BIOS readouts. Run some tests. Start the machine and go to the BIOS and note the temperatures. Exit the BIOS and when you get to the Windows desktop check the temperatures stated by Everest, they should be slightly higher. Run some programs then check Everest's readout. Restart and go to the BIOS readings. If they agree then Everest should be reading accurately. (In case you have not seen them, the BIOS temperature readouts are under the "System Health" menu.)

For monitoring I have seen a lot of people endorse Motherboard Monitor and Speedfan. See here:
http://au.search.anzwers.yahoo.com/...onitor+temperature&search.x=28&search.y=8&y=y

28 degrees C seems quite low compared to 54 C previously, even with the reduced multiplier.

If my (AMD) CPU "idled" at 45C and went to 55C with intensive work, I would not be concerned. I would start monitoring with "idle" in the 50's. Temperatures into the 60's would concern me.

Matt

 

Matt,
When I stated 28c, I was looking at the wrong readout.

I also found MBM and it is running as soon as windows starts and so is RightMark. My heat sink is rated for a 2600+ and I will replace it shortly with a bigger one. For now I have my case open to give it some extra relieve. The idle temp is now 47C. Once I get the better heat sink I will close it up. RightMark is the only utility that I run all the time the others where used to verify that I get the correct readouts. Every one is reporting the same numbers for heat and only slightly different numbers on FSB and CPU MHz. All are reporting that I have an AMD Mobile Athlon XP 3000+. Only my bios does not know what I have.

Thanks for your input
Sven

 

Matt,
While running Central Brain Identifier I noticed that there is a field "Dynamic Control" "Yes" .

Does that mean the chip adjust itself according to demand or just that I can adjust the clock?

BTW, today, with light use, the temp is a 44C and holding. But I ordered a new Termaltake heat sink.

Sven

 

Hi Matt,

I discovered something new just now.

RightMark has a feature that is called "PowerNowâ€.

It senses what demand is put on my CPU and adjusts the clock accordingly. That means I don’t have to set the clock, it will be set according demand. I found that out while editing some movie and then converting it to PAL (German TV Standard). After I hit "Burn" I opened RightMark to set the clock to 16, only to find out that it already was at 16.5. I left it open and sure enough, it dropped back to 13.5 (that is where I set it) after it was done converting the movie. So from now on I will leave the clock at 6x. That will also drop the temp to 40c in idle. When it ran at 2200 MHz the temp got to 55c.

During the conversion I closed RightMark and opened Central Brain Identifier and checked the MHz and it was at 800. After I opened RightMark again it got back to 2200 MHz.

I like this little utility.

Sven

 

Seems pretty nifty Sven. I think you have done well!
Check through the Help files or in the program folder for information, there might be other "tricks ".

Do you have a technique for installing the new heatsink?
www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm
The better the technique, the better the cooling. You want to achieve that "paper-thin" layer.

Matt

 

Matt,

Thanks for the info on how to install the heat sink.
Q: on the bottom of the heat sink there is a grey square that fits right on the chip. Is that the thermal layer?
Do I still need to put the thermal silicone paste on it?

I got myself a new Thermaltake Slim Volcano 10+ rated for an Athlon XP up to 3400+, all copper.
That should be good enough for my 3000+, right? While typing this, the temp is on 39c.

Let’s hope I/we solved all the problems, at least until I decide to upgrade again.

Thanks for your help

Sven

 

Oh yes! Whenever a heatsink is removed, a new layer of thermal compound must be applied. You also need to completely remove the old compound (they don't mix) or thermal pad. The thermal compound and the way you apply it may well be more important than the type of heatsink and fan.
Daanii found some Arctic Silver 5 for $6 a tube:
http://www.windowsbbs.com/showthread.php?t=44268&page=2
Read through the start of that thread as well, it has some other info that should be important for you.

I was going to mention it, but I thought you had already ordered the new heatsink + fan. The "architechure" of that mobile CPU you have now may be different to the previous one. The old one may well have been a 0.18 micron chip, whereas the new one is 0.13 micron, which means it would run cooler. The old heatsink may have been adequate using a layer of good thermal paste.

Read through the instructions (above), they should tell you all you need to know. It is not hard, you just need to follow carefully. After you have done it once or twice it's easy. You should have plenty left over (with a small chip area) so if you are not happy with the first try, remove the heatsink, clean the paste off and try again.

Changing the CPU is probably the area of upgrading where most care should be taken. By the way you have gone up till now, it should be a "snap" . As Jaylach mentioned in the other thread, after the "running-in" period and combined with your new heatsink/fan, you should have zero problems with temperature.
Give it heaps!!

Matt