Resolved UPS Recommendations

I'm having a look at UPS protection for comps. What recommendations can you guide me with. Thanks Neil.

 

Thanks Evan, I just changed the motherboard to an Asus M5A97R2.0 and thought I should investigate UPS's.
I booted the comp up and when it finished loading devices, I installed the Asus drivers from the disc and then noticed I had a message to solve Activation.
I'm now going through the hassle of the Product key # on the card I got with the W8.1 Pro 64 bit not being accepted because I've changed the M/B!
The comp seems to be working OK at the moment - but I'll have to check further at a later time. It's dinner time here. Neil.

 

Thanks Arie.

 

First, smart move going with a UPS. I've been pushing for ALL computers to be on a "good" UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation) for nearly 20 years!

There has been a push in recent years for "True" or "Pure" sinewave output. Most UPS provide "approximated sinewave" output. If you avoid the low end models, approximated is just fine as the regulator circuits of your connected devices can easily smooth out the rough edges.

That said, if I were shopping for a new UPS, I would probably look at true sinewave output models.

You may also hear some say PFC power supplies (as pretty much all are) should not be used with a UPS. Don't listen to them. They work just fine.

It is hard to go wrong with APC. I too have been using them for years and still have one that I got in 1994 (with several battery replacements along the way).

I use an APC 1500VA UPS on this system. That is more than enough to support my i7, 16Gb RAM computer with 4 drives, a decent (read: power hungry!) graphics card, wireless-N router, a 4-port Gbit Ethernet switch, cable modem, USB hub, PDA cradle, and my home phone - oh, and TWO 22" widescreens! It will provide power in the event of a full outage for about 25 to 30 minutes. 30 to 45 if I immediately turn off one monitor. And it will keep my network alive (and most importantly, all my IP assignments) for many hours, or days if the computer and monitors are asleep when the power goes.

To determine your UPS needs, I recommend using a PSU calculator, such as the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine the minimum PSU requirements. Then you inspect the power supplies for your monitor(s) and other devices and determine the wattage requirements. Each power supply is required to permanently post this information on the supply, or if supply is internal, on the back of the powered device. It will be molded in the plastic, or on a sticky label.

UPS makers typically rate UPS in VoltAmps but you will find most of your hardware will be rated in Watts. So, you may need to convert one to the other. In simple DC to DC conversions, 1 watt = 1 volt x 1 amp, or 1W = 1VA. But in dealing with AC to DC conversions and power supplies, including uninterruptible power supplies, you have to factor in the "power factor ".

Watts = VoltAmps x Power Factor (W = VA x PF)
VoltAmps = Watts/Power Factor (VA = W/PF).​

Most supplies have a PF of .6 to .8. If you don't know the specific PFs for your supplies, use .65. If it is not easily determined, I just use .65 anyway because that builds in a little buffer - and that is always good for longer uptimes, and future expansion.

Examples:

To convert 1000 VoltAmps to watts, 1000 x .65 = 650W
To convert 650 watts to VoltAmps, 650/ .65 = 1000VA ​

Add the totals and that is your minimum UPS size. There is no such thing as too big of a UPS. Your hardware draws what it needs, not what the supply can deliver. A larger UPS can handle larger loads, provide longer uptimes, or both. The reality is, a UPS only needs to provide stable and sufficient power long enough to save any open documents, shut down Windows, and power off the computer - less than 5 minutes.

That said, like many products, the makers typically put their nicer to have features in their larger (read: more expensive) models. For example, LCD monitoring displays, test buttons, more and wider spaced protected outlets, etc.

Finally (almost), unless the UPS manual specifically says it is okay, do not plug a surge and spike protector into the UPS, and do not plug the UPS into a surge and spike protector. The "clamping" action imposed by the S&S circuits can confuse the UPS line monitoring circuits into thinking something is wrong with the voltage. In extreme cases, the UPS will, by design, simply shut down to protect and isolate itself from potential damage, but primarily to totally isolate its load (your computer) from potential damaging voltages.

And now finally - for real, if you have an expensive big screen TV or home theater audio system, they should be on "good" UPS with AVR too.

 

Many thanks Bill for you advice. I'll now have to search my local suppliers for an APC UPS of suitable size for my needs. Neil.

 

I have been looking at them as well.
I had a look at that one.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19498&cPath=1120

 

Got activated by phone call to MS NZ, but I think it was handled in the Philippines. It's the Asian accent that gives them away.
Some how my Date and Time jumped a month ahead and caused the inability to use WU or Start8 activation. All sorted out now and everything seems to be working OK. Neil.

 

BTW, while I prefer APC UPS, I NEVER buy replacement batteries from APC. I buy my UPS batteries from Apex, BatteryWholesale, or Batteryplex, or even Amazon depending on who has the best price at the time (factoring in shipping, which can be significant, but sometimes free).

Note I just recently bought this 4-pack for my APC Smart UPS. $60 with free shipping. APC wanted almost $80 for 2 cells, plus shipping! And the only difference is the APC batteries have an APC label pasted over the other battery labels!

 

Thanks for heads up, Bill.

I'll certainly check those sites out when it comes to a replacement APC UPS battery.

 

Put a sticker on your UPS with the date purchased. SLA batteries tend to last about 3 years. Don't wait for a storm to take out power to realize the batteries can no longer hold a charge.

Better UPS will let you test the UPS via a Windows app (assuming the comm cable is connected). But the true test is to pull the plug and see what happens - but that could result in a HD crash and OS corruption. I have a 150W incandescent lightbulb I use to test mine.

Also, Radio Shack will recycle the old batteries for you. Same with Li CMOS batteries.

One thing I also like about the higher end models is they tend to have an informative LCD display. For example, on this i7 16Gb system with two 22" monitors, plus all my network gear (router, modem, switch), I can see my system is just loafing along while I type, pulling just 155W.

 

Did you miss this offer Bill:http://www.apexbattery.com/universal-ub6120-6-volts-12-amp-hours-sla-battery-d5736.html
They're asking about $30-$40 each for these batteries in NZ. Most of our batteries are imported into NZ now, as the Plants where they were manufactured around NZ have been unable to keep to the "Green" Standards required - so the Plants have closed down. Neil.

 

I did check Apex and pretty sure I saw that sale. It is a good price, for sure. But note you have to pay $9.29 extra for shipping and that takes it over the $60 I paid for the same batteries that came with free shipping (free this sale, anyway! ).

These suppliers change their prices and shipping options all the time. So every time you shop for batteries, shop around, and be sure to factor in shipping charges. Don't stick with just one supplier.

And remember, these batteries come with two types (sizes) connectors, F1 (.187" tab) and F2 (.25" tab). Adapters are available to convert one to the other but they add bulk and space is already very tight in UPS battery compartments. So it is best to order the right ones from the start.

Be careful when using a battery wizard to help select which battery is right for you. Some will offer only F1 batteries and include adapters. Or they may offer smaller capacity batteries. For example, the UPS may have come with 6V 9Ah batteries but the wizard may offer 6V 7Ah batteries. They will work with no harm done, but your run times will be reduced.

On the other hand, with a "good" UPS, you can increase your runtime as I did by getting larger capacity batteries. My UPS came with 6V 9Ah batteries but the first time I had to replace them, I went to 6V 12Ah to increase my run times. The only down side is there could be a small increase in heat when charging fully discharged batteries as that is when batteries "pull" maximum charging current. But note in just a few short minutes, those batteries are no longer "fully" discharged, thus the charging rate (and extra heat production) will settle down to normal.

The key is the voltage. If the original uses 6V cells, you must replace with 6V cells.

Note this is the same thing as replacing the original factory installed 12V, 550cca (cold cranking amps) battery that came in your car with a new 12V 700cca. As long as they are both 12V, the same or bigger (smaller may not turn over the engine) amps capacities, the battery has the same terminal posts and physically fits in the compartment, no problems. In fact, UPS batteries and car batteries are essentially the same technology - sealed, lead-acid batteries.

I say "good" UPS because they have better designed regulator circuits to prevent the batteries from pulling too much current too quickly when charging. I would not trust a budget UPS for that. But then again, I would not put a budget UPS on my precious computing, network, or home theater equipment anyways. Cheap UPS don't have a fast enough "cut-over" for my liking, and the resulting output waveform may not be "clean ". Okay for lightbulbs, but not high-speed digital electronics.

Sadly, with the popularity of UPS increasing, so has the availability (and fluffed up marketing claims) of cheap UPS. You must avoid the cheap UPS with as much emphasis as used to avoid cheap computer power supplies!

 

Thanks for the advice Bill, Arie, Evan and Hawk22. I'll let you know later how I get on. Neil.