1. You are viewing our forum as a guest. For full access please Register. WindowsBBS.com is completely free, paid for by advertisers and donations.

Potential problem with PSU?

Discussion in 'PC Hardware' started by PeteC, 2007/05/07.

  1. 2007/05/07
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    A recent problem ....

    For the past week or so it has become increasingly difficult to power up the computer from cold - i.e. in the morning.

    It is necessary to hit the power button several times before the power light comes on and the boot process starts. If the computer is shut down and restarted after, say 30 secs or more there is no problem.

    If I switch on the power at the wall, make a cup of coffee and then hit the power button - no problem, instant power on.

    I am no electrical guru - slept through all my electricity lectures at university :) - but it seems to me that the power supply now needs to 'warm up' before accepting the signal from the power button and this may be symptomatic of an internal fault.

    Would appreciate some input on this and recommendations for a new PSU if that is thought to be the root cause of the problem.

    Current PSU is Antec Truepower 2.0, 430 watt
     
    PeteC,
    #1
  2. 2007/05/07
    Whiskeyman Lifetime Subscription

    Whiskeyman Inactive Alumni

    Joined:
    2005/09/10
    Messages:
    1,772
    Likes Received:
    37
    Antec was having some problems due to switching to cheap capacitors. I use the trusted brands listed at the following site. For my own PCs I use Sparkle/FSP power supplies. If you look under the Brands tab you will see Hiper listed as a popular European brand that is trustworthy.

    http://www.10stripe.com/featured/psu/notes.php

    As to the Antec supplies.
     
    Whiskeyman,
    #2


  3. to hide this advert.

  4. 2007/05/07
    Rockster2U

    Rockster2U Geek Member

    Joined:
    2002/04/01
    Messages:
    3,181
    Likes Received:
    9
    Whiskeyman;

    Nice link, excellent information - thanks.

    ;)
     
    Rockster2U,
    #3
  5. 2007/05/07
    Whiskeyman Lifetime Subscription

    Whiskeyman Inactive Alumni

    Joined:
    2005/09/10
    Messages:
    1,772
    Likes Received:
    37
    That site was compiled by one of the regulars (Aluvus) from the old TechTV boards.
     
    Whiskeyman,
    #4
  6. 2007/05/07
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    Thanks, Whiskeyman

    Great site - I get the impression that you suspect the power supply. As far as a replacement is concerned my supplier does not list Hiper, but this would seem to be a good buy and they have them in stock - Seasonic 500W PSU - S12 Series & Seasonic 600W PSU - S12 Series ....

    http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...d=3154&zenid=73b5f50d7fd4d4d13631dc1b4472eaf1

    Bit pricey - £73/90 (~$146/180). I could buy a new Antec case c/w the latest version of my existing power supply for less :), but as I build my own PC's the Seasonic should be an investment for the next build?
     
    PeteC,
    #5
  7. 2007/05/07
    Hugh Jarss

    Hugh Jarss Inactive

    Joined:
    2002/07/22
    Messages:
    908
    Likes Received:
    6
    Hi Pete

    would suggest also check BIOS battery voltage; easiest/best done with digital meter (analogue meter loads the voltage), you don't have to take the battery out (indeed, you don't want to take it out - measuring it in circuit gives the reading you are after)

    if you don't already have one, you should be able to get a little meter along these lines for ~£25 which it wil soon repay... very useful for all sorts of things


    best wishes, HJ
     
    Hugh Jarss,
    #6
  8. 2007/05/07
    Hugh Jarss

    Hugh Jarss Inactive

    Joined:
    2002/07/22
    Messages:
    908
    Likes Received:
    6
    reasoning:

    on at least one motherboard here (M6TWL), if I press the power button before turning on at the mains, the effect is that the machine powers up as soon as the mains is switched on afterwards - without the need to press the power button again; it's "remembering" the press of the power button, even in the absence of mains power

    there's only one way that can be happening - the power-on logic must be working off battery (or rather, shared) supply

    OK. What's else is running from this "shared" supply? The clock (at least, "part of" the timekeeping).

    Assuming that there's nothing amiss with (or nothing connected to) WOL & WOR, the clock is the only thing which will effectively be drawing current from the BIOS battery in the absence of mains power. The battery current will drop to nothing as soon as mains power is connected, the +5 standby takes over.

    Battery performance is worse at lower temperature; also, recovery of the terminal voltage over a minute or two after a load is removed is just what one would expect.

    ==

    if your BIOS battery is something like this it's very easy to make the measurement; red prod on the top of the battery, black prod on any ground.

    ==

    the arrangement of the power on logic will be quite different with different mfrs and motherboards - I have no idea how much, if any - of this will apply to yours

    just suggesting a quick check which might avoid you investing in new PSU only to find it makes no difference :)


    best, HJ
     
    Last edited: 2007/05/07
    Hugh Jarss,
    #7
  9. 2007/05/07
    Whiskeyman Lifetime Subscription

    Whiskeyman Inactive Alumni

    Joined:
    2005/09/10
    Messages:
    1,772
    Likes Received:
    37
    I find that when someone needs to press the power button more than once the PSU is usually ready to fail. This could be due to bad caps. I have never seen a dead Cmos battery cause a non-powerup situation. I would definitely go for the Seasonic S12 series. Those are extremely quiet and last forever. I would buy one if my current PC warranted it. In the future perhaps. I am shopping around now to build a new system. It's almost time to retire my old Epox Socket A board and AMD XP 2400+.
     
    Whiskeyman,
    #8
  10. 2007/05/07
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    Hugh

    Thank you for that - the mobo (Asus A8N-SLI Premium) is just on a year old and Everest indicates 3.1v for the BIOS battery. I have never had to replace a BIOS battery and never known one to fail/exhaust among my colleagues.

    I don't follow your thoughts about the battery playing any part in the power up sequence.
    Are you sure that is isn't a push on/push off locking power button? There's bound to be a technical term for that sort of switch :)

    Maybe the The Power_Good Signal discussed here would account for my problem ....
    Could be that the voltages from cold need to stabilise before power is supplied?
     
    PeteC,
    #9
  11. 2007/05/07
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    Whiskeyman

    Thanks for the advice - I checked my accounts - this is the second PSU in my current Antec Sonata case in 3 years - the first, also Antec, failed with a bang (literally) - looks like this one may be failing with a whisper :)
     
    PeteC,
    #10
  12. 2007/05/10
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    Fitted new Seasonic 600W PSU - S12 Series - problem solved with the added bonus that Power Options and screensaver now function properly :)

    Thanks.
     
    PeteC,
    #11
  13. 2007/05/10
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    I forgot to mention - the case fan is now running flat out continually and is rather too noisy for my liking and I have lost the PSU fan speed sensor which the Antec power supply provided.

    I can live without the latter, but a thermally controlled case fan would cut the noise down. Any recommendations? - I came across this at my normal supplier ....

    http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=75012
     
    PeteC,
    #12
  14. 2007/05/10
    Whiskeyman Lifetime Subscription

    Whiskeyman Inactive Alumni

    Joined:
    2005/09/10
    Messages:
    1,772
    Likes Received:
    37
    That fan should quiet things down. Usually the Seasonics aren't that noisy. Of course that PSU does have some horsepower under the hood. :D
     
    Whiskeyman,
    #13
  15. 2007/05/10
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    The Seasonic is whisper quiet - it's the case fan running at hurricane force with sound effects, although on further investigation I think it may be the fan bearings in a hard drive fanset which are probably shot making most of the noise:)
     
    PeteC,
    #14
  16. 2007/05/10
    Rockster2U

    Rockster2U Geek Member

    Joined:
    2002/04/01
    Messages:
    3,181
    Likes Received:
    9
    Pete:

    Don't know if you are running one of those plate type coolers or talking about a fan in a removable HDD tray/enclosure or something else but if its one of those small fans in a removable tray, I've found hdd's stay just about the same temperature with or without the fan.

    Nice choice on the PSU. Gotta love the Whiskeyman's link.

    ;)
     
    Rockster2U,
    #15
  17. 2007/05/11
    PeteC

    PeteC SuperGeek Staff Thread Starter

    Joined:
    2002/05/10
    Messages:
    28,896
    Likes Received:
    389
    Rockster

    I have 3 hard drives stacked one above another in an Antec Sonata case - 2 x Hitachi SATA drives above a WD PATA drive. Originally there was a fourth drive Maxtor PATA installed as well above the WD and below the SATA's, but that was removed when I perceived the temp of the WD to be too high .

    When I put this lot together the WD was running 5º C or more above the Hitachis which hovered around 35º C (It's a couple of years since I built this and I think those were the relative temperatures at the time). I felt it that the WD was too hot. The drive cooler is a 2 fan assembly in a housing fixed directly to the drive and initially reduced the drive temp by ~5º C.

    With the drive cooler disconnected as of yesterday the drive temp was below 35º C - within a degree of the Hitachi's, after a few hours uptime which surprised me, but with the cables being rearranged and a thorough dedusting maybe the internal cooling pattern has improved. I shall be closely monitoring the situation :)
     
    PeteC,
    #16

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Accept Learn More...