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Resolved my mouse multi-clicks for no reason

Discussion in 'Windows 7' started by KamikaziFly, 2017/06/22.

  1. 2017/06/22
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    Inactive - my mouse multi-clicks

    I first started having this problem about a month or so ago. I think it may be related to 1 of 3 autoclickers I downloaded 6 months ago. First I was using GS-Autoclicker, and everything seemed fine. But then I started using NI-Autoclicker, and thats when I started having problems. I don't know why I also downloaded a newer NI-Autoclicker, but it seems to be the same size. When I tried to simply restore a restore point, I then realized my harddrive had ran out of room and removed all my restore points (and I decided to delete several large games and programs).

    Anyway, I am finding it beyond irritating that my mouse clicks many times when I click on anything. It often causes me to open things when all I was trying to do was select something to view at more closely. It even occurs with my middle click sometimes. It makes playing FallOut4 irritating, since I double or triple shoot, completely missing all subsequent shots.

    Its hard for me to decipher what is going on, since the extra clicks often cause extra things to happen.
    ---
    I've used Malwarebytes AntiMalware, but it finds nothing.
    I also use SpyBot Search and Destroy, AdBlockerPlus, ScriptBlocker, Ghostery.
     
  2. 2017/06/22
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    Last edited: 2017/06/23

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  4. 2017/06/23
    Bill

    Bill SuperGeek WindowsBBS Team Member

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    Have you tried a different mouse? A worn/broken return spring can prevent the button from returning firmly, causing the mouse button to bounce several times on the contacts with each click.
     
    Bill,
    #3
  5. 2017/06/23
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    I was thinking about that last night. I started looking for a good mouse that won't break.
     
  6. 2017/06/24
    rsinfo

    rsinfo SuperGeek Alumni

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    Everything eventually breaks. It's just a matter of time.
     
  7. 2017/06/24
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    Yes, but as I was searching through mice on Amazon last night, it even seemed the $70 mice were arriving broken sometimes.
     
  8. 2017/06/24
    retiredlearner

    retiredlearner SuperGeek WindowsBBS Team Member

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    You don't give any specifics about your mouse. I assume it's a gaming mouse, wireless or cable, brand/model etc.?
     
  9. 2017/06/24
    Bill

    Bill SuperGeek WindowsBBS Team Member

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    That does not really mean anything. Until Man can create perfection 100% of the time, there will always be units coming off the production line that fail prematurely - even from the best makers. And of course, the box can fall off the truck.

    FTR, I don't like buying mice (or keyboards) online unless I am already familiar with that specific device. These HIDs (human interface devices) are extensions of our own hands and MUST feel good to us as individuals. What feels great in my hand, may not in yours. So it is really best to visit your locale computer stores and play touchy feely to find one you like. Of course that is not always possible, and you really need to wear a surgical mask and use hand sanitizer after each test, but it is better than buying a mouse or keyboard online only to discover it feels awkward (or even painful :() in your hands.

    In the meantime, you should be able to switch the buttons in the Mouse applet in Control Panel. This reverses the primary and secondary buttons (changes the mouse from a right-handed mouse to a left-handed mouse). Then see if you get multiple clicks with the less used button.
     
    Bill,
    #8
  10. 2017/06/25
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    The mouse in question was a $5 gaming mouse that I spent around 5 years with. So it is quite possible that it has been worn out. After I was told that it was not a virus, I started thinking... and I realized I had also been counteracting the multi-clicking by holding down the button closer to the top instead of at the front end. And it was working slightly better... but I would forget and start clicking from the front end again, which would send multiple clicks through at entirely the wrong time.

    Then I swapped it with my Logitech Trackball I bought on Black Friday, (which I only stopped using because the 12 month battery stopped working in 4 months and the 2nd set of batteries I bought were just as bad, even though they were fresh.) But I swear it was occurring with the trackball too, at the time.

    But now I also remember that I removed the 2nd mouse driver from Device Manager, then rebooted, then ran the FRST program for the other forum on this site. Even though it installed again on reboot. (It also didn't stop my mouse from working when I removed it.)

    And now... now neither of my mice have the severe multi-click. So either the mouse just fixed itself from an extremely annoying all the time spring button, or the one driver I removed was the culprit. But then again... if I try to intentionally cause the gamer mouse to fire... I can get it to start sending 1 to 5 clicks. But it takes a few minutes to get it to start. Maybe the heat of my finger? Maybe the heat of the sensor sending signals? And if I let it sit for a few minutes (and get cold again?) it starts working properly again. (I tested it by purchasing levels on an idle game. It acted like a click counter for me.)

    At any rate, I think I will go to my local pc store and find a germ infested mouse to get a feel for, because now it seems clear that the left mouse button's clicker has gone bad.

    Thanks for all your help everyone!
     
    Last edited: 2017/06/25
  11. 2017/06/25
    Bill

    Bill SuperGeek WindowsBBS Team Member

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    Since heat rises, I doubt it is heat from your finger. And the LED and sensor should not be getting that hot either - unless defective and I doubt that as that would result in excessive current through the USB port. My guess is that it is just worn and slow to fully return (if able to fully return).

    As far as eating up batteries, that's why I went to rechargeable batteries for my wireless mouse.
     
  12. 2017/06/25
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    About 8 years ago I bought those rechargeable lithium AA batteries, and although they were a name brand... they always died after 1 day of use. Even one day of non-use. I used to use them on my Wii. Even after placing them directly from the charger into the remotes and putting them away, they would be dead the next day. Same when used with a wireless xbox controller I had for pc. Since then I tried to steer clear from wireless devices that could use batteries. The Logitech Trackball only came in a wireless model, but I really wanted a trackball again. I really liked the trackball I had in 1997. I have on my grocery list to pick up a couple name brand regular AA batteries this time.

    The mouse left button fully returns, but somewhere between being pressed and fully released (when it makes a release click sound) it sends 1-5 clicks. Not after it has been fully released, but before.
     
  13. 2017/06/25
    retiredlearner

    retiredlearner SuperGeek WindowsBBS Team Member

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    An interesting problem. Bill may correct me if I'm wrong, but I have noticed that there are warnings on electric devices about using ONLY the "type" of battery recommended by the manufacturer. e.g. Ni-cad batteries should not be used where Lithium batteries are required. I think it has something to do with the circuitry and demands (load) required from the device. The same warnings regarding mixing "types' of batteries, e.g. rechargeable with ordinary.
    Lithium batteries are not the magic elixir if the application does not state that they can be used instead of the recommended type.
     
  14. 2017/06/25
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    Regular alkaline AA, AAA, C, D, DD batteries are all 1.5 volts, I don't know the amps, I think around 1000MaH.
    Lithium batteries give off amps ranging from 2200MaH to 2900MaH, I don't remember the voltage.
    The NiMH batteries I have are 1.2 volts, 2100MaH. I have two sets, all being RayOVac. Some are Platinum NiMH, the others are just NiMH.

    I realize now I was using these NiMH batteries when the rechargeable lithium batteries were only lasting one day. And these batteries typically only lasted one day as well. I can't find those old rechargeable lithium batteries. (Maybe they're in an old camera.)

    I was using an alkaline RayOVac battery on my wireless Logitech Trackball. The 2nd battery may have just been mostly dead right out of the package.
     
    Last edited: 2017/06/25
  15. 2017/06/26
    Bill

    Bill SuperGeek WindowsBBS Team Member

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    I know this used to be the case all the time and I think it still is the case in devices that come with rechargeable batteries from the factory - electric razors come to mind. But for devices that take standard AA and AAA 1.5VDC batteries, I don't see why there would be a problem.

    The milliamp hour or mAh (note the small "m", big "A", and small "h") does not matter as long as it is at least what a standard (alkaline) battery has. That is, you can always insert a battery with a larger mAh rating. That is exactly what "extended" batteries for longer run times in cell phones do - same voltage, larger mAh. Inserting a larger mAh battery in an UPS when replacements are due increases load capabilities and run times without any risks. You just must ensure you NEVER use a battery with a higher voltage value. I have replaced all the 12V-7Ah batteries in my UPS with 12V-9Ah for longer run times. :)

    Note rechargeable NiMH batteries are typically a slightly lower voltage than their standard alkaline counterpart. For example, 1.2VDC instead of 1.5VDC. This is okay because of the way NiMH (and Li-ion) batteries discharge - they tend to push out maximum voltage at a steady voltage almost their entire discharge period, then decay rapidly like dropping off a cliff. Alkaline batteries drop immediately when put under load, then continue to decay on a steady downhill slope. So you are not getting ripped off if your NiHM battery is rated at only 1.2V instead of 1.5V.

    I find it unlikely they were Li-ion. While "rechargeable" Li-ion AAA and AA "1.5" volt batteries do exist, it has only been in the last 3 or 4 years because the makers had to invent and develop new technologies to overcome Li-ion "native" cell voltage of "3.7" volts.

    Plus they are pretty rare because they are so darn expensive. Note this 4-pack for a whopping $38!!! While many of these have the same "form factor" (physical dimensions) as standard AA, they cannot be used in place of AA cells. I have seen these used in those very high output "tactical" LED flashlights. Another problem is Li-ion rechargeable batteries have this tiny problem of exploding and catching fire. :rolleyes:

    So, as far as your batteries from 8 years ago, I suspect they really were NiMH or NiCad. But I still don't have an explanation for their 1 day charge life except to suggest either you got a bad batch of batteries, or the charger was faulty.

    Rechargeable batteries are not like they used to be. As I noted, I use them in my mouse (mice actually - in my notebook's mouse too). I also use them in my keyboard, electric toothbrushes, automatic safety light for the stairway into the basement, and elsewhere. I get about 5 months use with my mouse and keyboard between charges. The toothbrushes run for about 4 months. The stairway light varies depending on time of year/length of day. You might want to give them another go.
     
  16. 2017/06/30
    KamikaziFly

    KamikaziFly New Member Thread Starter

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    My new mouse came and it works fine. Thanks for helping me realize the old one was faulty!
     
  17. 2017/06/30
    Bill

    Bill SuperGeek WindowsBBS Team Member

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    Glad it worked and thanks for posting your followup!
     

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