Got Router...Now what??

Heard cable modem LAN nic connection is very bad security wise so i bought a (8) port mini-port.....router i guess (now what or how do i connect it)? I run W2k pro........

I only want to connect (my one pc) thru it right now.

The cable now runs to the cable/modem and then theres a patch (larger looking phone like type line) that runs to my NIC card.

The hub is a Encore ESH-709 8-port mini-hub, it has a uplink port along with the other 8 large phone-line type ports.....i think they call them cat5 or something like that.

I connected my cable-modem to the "uplink" port and ran the patch cable from the port #3 to my NIC card and it was a No-Go.

Please, some steps to fix this........

Thanks
Ossa

 

basic setup

There is a cable that comes from your wall. If it is DSL then it will be a phone jack or if Cable then it will be a coaxial cable. This cable runs into a your dsl or cable modem. There is a cable that runs out of your cable modem that normally goes to your PC. This needs to be plugged into your router. On most routers there is a port (big phone jack looking hole) that is usaully labeled WAN. Your cable leaving your modem should plug into there. Now your pc should plug into one of the 8 ports.

That is the basic hardware. Configuring the security on your router is a whole new ball game. I hate these companies for selling these firewall routers for home use because properly configuring one is not for a beginner.

Call the the tech support for the router. Most highspeed access providers will not help configure router/firewalls.

If you only have one pc that you are connecting to it you could have just bought BLACK ICE DEFENDER which is a software security program that runs on your pc it is 50 dollars US and is probably more to what you want. If you plan to put several pc's on the same internet connection then you need a router or window ics and a hub....


Good luck.

Tek

 

reading more of what you wrote

Your probably havin IP issues. Most home lans use 192.168.0.xxx

http://www.cablemodemhelp.com/

Try that web site for specific help on cable modems...


Tek

 

My mini-hub doesn't have a WAN port......it "only" has 8 ports and a "uplink" port.
I might mention that i connected it like yu said (excluding the wan part) and it didn't work. but of course, i had to connect the patch cable to to uplink port.

Thx Tekguy for yr help.......

Ossa

 

Sounds like you didn't get a router, but rather a simple hub. You can have good security without a router. Go to www.grc.com and follow the recommendations on how to configure your network and install a software firewall like Zone Alarm or Tiny firewall.

 

2 things.
First that is definately a hub only device.
Secondly most Cable modems use a crossover cable and not a patch cable to run from the modem to the nic.

 

Unfortunately you have the wrong device for what you are trying to do. You want a router or gateway. Linksys makes an affordable gateway/router. It has a single WAN port and one LAN port. The idea is to bring your service into the WAN (wide area network) port and plug your computer into the LAN (local area network) port. The gateway/router is configured to look like your computer to your internet service. Your computer is then configured with LAN IP settings. Linksys defaults to 192.168.1.x but you can set it to anything you want...I use 10.0.0.x. The internet won't see your network or computer. You will be separated by the NAT (network address translation) hardware in the gateway/router. It is pretty easy to configure...most devices are Web based for setting them up. I would recommend buying a single port Linksys box instead of running firewall software. They are a pain in the butt because of false alarms and use valuable resources on your computer. Sorry...just my opinion. I have four computers networked through a Wireless Linksys box and really like it. Good luck!

 

Heard cable modem LAN nic connection is very bad security wise

Not if we take the proper steps to protect ourselves.

And can keep the LAN off of TCP/IP. And do not bind File and Printer sharing and Client for MS Networks to TCP/IP

The way my LAN is set up I can not even get from machine to machine without granting permission to the Firewall ( both in and out )

The only reason for it being a little more dangerous is in the fact that you are on-line full time and your IP address remains pretty much constant thereby giving hackers a little more time to find you and any open ports.

A Dial-Uo that is on for several hours at a time is just as bad as Cable or DSL if left unprotected.

It does require a good soild Firewall. But, actually a Dial-up should have a Firewall too.

We won't bother with Anti-Virus because that is a SHOULD BE for all types of connections.

Using a Router with built in Firewal I agree.

I am thinking of getting a 4 port one myself. That way I would not have to run & maintain three firewalls. And also would save me $12/MO.

But the rest of the above quote I dis-agree. I have yet see Norton Internet Security ( firewall and NAV ) use very many resources. And even if it did it is WELL worth it.

Right now I have NIS, NAV and several other items in the systray. I am online with IE6 open writing this reply and have 83,83,90 resources free.

The above is refering to a Home LAN using Win95 or any version of Wn98 below ME. An office LAN may be a little different.

NT, 2K and XP are out of my league. ( WAY OUT )

BillyBob

 

Ok, bought a 4-porter router;

It's a Linksys "BEFSR41 V.2" and the manual is anything but plain step-step learn, about the time i think i'm getting it...it goes off about a 3 porter or one porter and DSL...

I have a Mediaone/ATT mac address for my nic to a cable modem that i had to call them to provision....I have all the "ipconfig" info and thats about the end of my brain base learn curve on networking.

The cable comes from the wall to my ext. cable/modem, a cat5 patch cable runs from it to my Int. NIC and it works....i'm here, what can i say.
I wish i knew how to post a image file here and i'd show what i'm talking about but I don't have a web site to upload or i would...

The linksys manual instructions are different than what really happens when i open my IE6 browser to http://192.168.1.1 to configure the router thing (as they suggest). I'd pay a extra $10 or more to get a D** manual related to my issue, It's like they decided to jell 1, 3, and 4 ports units into one manual along with DSL....
Good info. but doesn't meet my needs.

Ossa

 

i use a DSL line and i am connected as shown at
http://www.cable-modems.org/articles/internet_sharing/hardware_firewall.htm

the alternative hook up is at

http://www.cable-modems.org/articles/internet_sharing/software_firewall.htm


i have a netgear rp114 bought for it's Network Address Translation (NAT) -- i was using thhe free version of Zonealarm, since i purchased the router my system appears to far more stable. it might be overkill but it is not using any system resources as black ice zone or tiny would be doing.

 

Ossa,
I have configured dozens of those routers. If you like shoot me an e mail and we will hook up via telephone and I can walk you through all the features.

 

I use an SMC barricade 4 port router with a printer sharing port. Excellent product with good phone support. They recommend:http://www.helmig.com/ for configuring your particular lan. Worked well for me. I've got a W95notebook,W98Desktop,and WXP notebook all acting as if it were one big box. I only pay for one cable connection and don't need an extra firewall as nothing gets past the barricade.

 

Hey OSSA,
I replied to your e mail but they came back this morning from your pop3 server telling me the address was unknown. you also have your address blocked in windowsBBS. Kinda hard to help ya if I can't get in touch.

Scott

 

Working and for the grand Scenario:

Special Thanks To "ssmith10pn" and all others for the quick responce and suggestions because My 4-porter Linksys router is working great.....

My mistake was:
(1) make Dang sure yu use "Patch" cables, not crossover cables.
(2) tranfer all your old NIC info. to the Linksys config menu so it's cloned.
(3) don't config any NIC's, set them to auto config.
(4) Un-install any firewall software before trying to make any changes.

These manuals are very vague guy's and gal's, I guess there must be some legal issues why they beat around the busch, SOoo these forums are a must have......

Thanks Gang !!!!!!!!
Ossa

 

I think Linksys should pay me royalties! LMAO!!

 

I Agree !!!!

 

ATTENTION INCORRECT INFO from ssmith10pn:

My experience with 3-4 different routers (the most popular ones Linksys, SMC, Watchguard SOHO, etc.) is that the cable from CABLE/DSL Modem to router (WAN) connection is a PLAIN patch cable not crossover.

And OSSA's experience confirms this.

Perhaps ssmith10pn is speaking about rather old routers (older than last 2 yrs) when routers made by Cisco, Baynet etc. were not made for home or really small offices and used to cost in the $500-1500 range.

Also note that Tekguy did not pickup on the fact that Ossa was messing with a hub at first and not a router, and was giving all sorts of irrelevant advice.

Not all advice is equally good or relevant. Look for advice from people whose suggestions lead to success.

Dan

 

drdancm,
Maybe I was miss-understood or I didn't word my post correctly. Ossa and I had several conversations via e mail after that post so I never looked at again until now! I was not saying a crossover cable was required. I was cautioning that some Cable Modems (I know the hybrid does) use a crossover cable from the modem to the NIC and will need to be replaced when going from the modem to the router. OSSA had gotten some cables from a friend to set his up and there was a crossover cable in the pile causing him much grief.
A crossover cable is easily identifiable because it will be 568A on one end and 568B on the other end.

 

drdancm,
The point of this board is not for attacking people personally, especially for revenge from another thread!

You are 100% right that we must all watch the advice we get on board like this. As a matter of fact, I subscribe to the theory of not posting anything unless you are well versed in the solution and have the understanding to back it.

I believe you were the one that recommended to another member that they should try falling back from a 10/100 switch to an old 10Mb/s hub. Here's a few of your posts.....

"Try this:

If you bring up the Networking Menu (depends on OS) and get properties of NIC --you should be able to force the card to 10Mbps Halp Duplex. This generally allows more reliable operation than the 100Mbps Full duplex. You probably have to re-boot after making this change.

If this does not work, borrow an older 10Mbps HUB and uplink it to the Router, and connect your problematic connection thru this 10Mbps which should enable more reliable connectivity over longer cable lengths than the 10/100 which is built into your Router.

Good luck
Dan "

"A couple of notes:

For Lorreen: Appreciate the feedback. And congratulations on doing this all on your own and not being afraid to tackle all this stuff.

There is no serious downside to using half duplex --it will not bleed your computer dry over time, and as you said and as anyone fairly knowledgable would have predicted you won't notice the difference in speed surfing the web since your web access speed is almost certainly the limiting factor. For large file transfers, as others have pointed out, you will get slower transfers than if your setup worked at 100Mbps at full duplex.

However, results count. You now have something that actually works well. Without having to spend more money, or re-crimp one more time (which you have already done more than once, on both ends).
Some of the very helpful advice is just too impractical.

I am somewhat skeptical of some of the comments on how much slower large file transfers are at this point. Differences in theoretical calculations based on ideal 10Mbps vs 100Mbps transfer times are likely to be much shorter than actual MEASURED transfer times because of other real world variables such as hard drive sustained vs burst speed limitations etc. If in doubt do the experiment--that is always the final word.



As mjg1973, says, if you have some very fancy and very expensive diagnostic tools (a sniffer), and you know what you are doing the exact basis of the problem could be pinpointed.

Several people, far more knowledgable than I, have made comments about crimping problems and talk about too much NEXT or FEXT. Please explain clearly what this is all about. I know a bit about
electronics and I understand impedance. I personally make it a habit not to use terminology without explaining it.

As far as any particular color coding schemes, it makes no difference as long as you use the same scheme on both ends. The wires are identical, the colors on the insulation are for identification purposes only. HOWEVER, if you adhere to some standard and write it down, you will make life easier for yourself and eliminate having to re-crimp both ends of cables, in case one end comes loose or is cut accidentaly just to be sure that the connections use the same wiring scheme.

Many of us tech guys are perfectionists (and that's how it should be), but we need to keep in mind that most non-tech types are more interested in just solving the problem, and have neither the time nor the money to do countless experiments stretching over weeks before being satisfied.

Thanks guys
Dan "

And when someone asked about making patch cables and inquired about cable lenghts...

"I have run into to some unexpected cable segment length problems when using 10/100 hubs.

Could not get reliable or any connectivity with cable length within specifications (well under 300 ft). In some cases solved problem by forcing 10/100 NIC to work at 10Mbps. But this did not always work.

What always worked was to replace 10/100 hub with an older technology 10Mb hub.

Netgear tech support confirmed the existence of both the problem and the solution. "

In fact, the person here didn't know that there were ways specs to follow when making a patch cable. I'm guessing that you are in the same boat.

Personally, I've working on very large projects for the DoD for quite some time now. Doing things by the book is the ONLY way, whether you have 10 nodes or 10,000 nodes. Had that one member been made aware of the T568B specs for patch cables, they would only have had to make the cables once....and would be running at 100Mb/s Full-Duplex with no problems....like the rest of us!!

 

reply to drdancm

"Also note that Tekguy did not pickup on the fact that Ossa was messing with a hub at first and not a router, and was giving all sorts of irrelevant advice. "


not that I feel I need to explain myself...

"The hub is a Encore ESH-709 8-port mini-hub, it has a uplink port along"

Switches have uplink ports, routers have uplink ports I have never used a home hub with a uplink jack....


Excuse the pizz out of me for not spending all day tracking down an obscure piece of network hardware that is out of date, just so I can make sure the lesser experienced user is using proper descriptions of what his equipment is so that I can ponder a guess as to what his issue is...