Resolved New desktop build

Burnishing and polishing are another couple of terms Christer.
Remember "The Karate Kid" and Mr. Miagi.

 

I'm still waiting to hear from Gigabyte and Thermalright before I finish installing my hardware. I need to know the direction the M.2 heatsink faces and how large a spacer I can place at the top of the radiator without damaging the M.2 slot. Once I hear from them, it shouldn't take me more than 10-15 minutes to finish installing all the hardware.

I've been doing a lot of research on Windows 11, what it offers and how to clean it up by disabling or uninstalling non-essentials. I've accumulated pages of adjustments to make. I guess there is no need for partitioning drives anymore, now that 11 offers virtual drives. I plan to use a local account rather than a Microsoft account. Microsoft is all about gathering and selling personal information, and I'm not interested in making it easy for them.

 

Gigabyte was of no help, so I'm still waiting for Thermalright.

 

Barry, I've viewed the Thermalright video clip on the installation of the unit and it shows the thermal pads already installed. You need to remove the blue 1apes and install as shown in the video. From video clip, it shows that the small cooling fan will be next to your GPU.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-HR10-2280-PRO-Double-Sided/dp/B0C4GX886D/ref=sr_1_30?th=1

 

That video is deceiving, as it is placed between the two PCIe X16 slots, whereas I only have one. I did receive one response from Thermalright, and I'm waiting for a second one. In the first response, I was told to place it in the M.2 slot underneath the GPU, with the fan toward the CPU. I wrote back and said this wouldn't fit under my GPU, so it has to be on the M.2 slot between the GPU and CPU. I'm still waiting for a response.

I think I'll connect the HR-10 to my present computer and then hold it up to a solid surface to see the dynamics of direction and creating a slight gap at the top for airflow. I'll test that at full speed and 1/2 speed. Hopefully I'll be able to tell whether direction and the gap might impact airflow and noise.

 

Apparently I can't try it out, as this is 4 pin, and all other computers here are 3 pin. Hopefully, someone else has had experience with this and can share what they've discovered.

 

My point was regarding the Thermal pad thickness and the position of the cooler fan.
I don't see any problem with the unit sitting between your CPU and GPU.
You should not have any worries as long as the CPU cooling fan has clearance.

My Noctua CPU fan assembly extends over the M.2 and just clears the face of my GPU.
As I stated previously, it runs at 33*C --- no problems.

 

I still don't know which direction the air should flow... Towards the GPU or CPU.

 

I have used the video clip as a guide for my installations.
The video shows the fan facing the GPU which I would use to install.

 

It appears there would be less resistance if the air flowed into open space, into the primary path of the forward case fan pushing air back and then rear case fan pulling the air out, than pushing against the side of the GPU (only 1mm away). What are your thoughts when it comes to reversing that?

 

All the fans in my comp have the Manufacturers label on the hub and blow the air to the rear of that label.
Does your Thermalright cooling fan blow the air over the hub label?

 

The configuration of the HR-10 fan blade looks like my rear case fan, not my front case fan. Therefor, it appears it would push the air through the radiator rather than pull it from the radiator.

 

Also, I have another question about the case. Lian Li provides a plate to seal the top front opening when people choose to use 120mm fans instead of 140mm fans. Since I'm not planning on adding more fans (unless I find it necessary in the future), would you recommend I seal all the fan mounting openings on top, to keep the airflow going directly through the case and out the back? If so, what material do you recommend I use to seal this opening?

 

Leave them alone.

 

My test showed an increase in high frequency sound when a barrier was close to the intake side of the fan and a lower frequency sound when a barrier was close to the exhaust side of the fan. I guess air being sucked in is through a more limited space than the exhaust, which can go out and to the sides, also. The fan would probably have to work harder and wear out quicker if it was place on the GPU side. Therefore, pushing air toward the GPU seems to make more sense than pushing air toward the CPU. Does this make sense to you also?

 

Barry. I think you are finding problems that aren't there.
I would place the cooling assembly as shown in the video clip and finish your assembly and try it and see how it goes.

As I explained earlier, my rig is running Ryzen 9 5900X CPU and currently it's temp is 37*C. (TJM is 90^C).
When I set it up, I had Restarts which I put down to insufficient air flow from the Wraith Fan.
I invested in the Noctua unit and all is sweet.

I've seen on Google that many users of the Ryzen 9 5900X have been finding it runs at very high temperatures.
Some have installed water cooling systems which have not been able to cure the problem.
I honestly think it will be a **** it and see, as the saying goes.
I've built all my Desktop computers during the last 20 years, and this is the first time I've experienced a heat dissipation problem.

After doing my Googling, I was prepared for this event and acted accordingly.
The small comp room I was in upstairs was heating up in the summer heat to the point that I started to sweat after a few minutes, so it didn't involve much diagnosis to move the Ryzen 9 downstairs to a cooler room and end of problem.

 

Thank you for your response. I think I'll go along with the recommendations from Thermalright ("The fan side should be placed facing the CPU.") rather than their generic video with no GPU attached that shows the opposite.

 

I got it all together and pressed the start button. I couldn't believe how quiet it was... until I realized nothing was working. Eventually, I pulled the connectors from the front power header and replaced it exactly as I had it originally. The computer started up. It is still amazingly quiet. I can't seem to get on WiFi. though. I can find the network, but it tries to connect automatically, without allowing me to input the password, and it won't connect. Where can I go to input the password?

 

I figured it out. I typed in the wrong password when they asked for the network security key. All is fine, now. Why don't they just call it the password?

 

Sounds great. I agree with you that building a new comp these days with the new technology parts and its starts and runs so quietly compared to a comp running Windows 98 or XP.
You should get lots of enjoyment from your build.