Resolved Power switch flash and dead PC?

IBP system, gaming, ?3 years old.
I powered it on yesterday and saw a flash (and a small "pop" sound) resulting in a dead system.
System is completely dead. Question is: what other components have been damaged?
I can test some components - HD's, RAM, maybe even graphics card and sound card.. I have no way
to check the power unit or MB.until i get a power switch. Could i wire in just a plain on/off togggle switch?
Not sure what kind of switch to ask for?

On the lighter side - do i just have a 40-pound paper weight sitting next to my desk?

thanks,
clit

 

I don't know what a IBP system is, unless you mean the brand name, iBuyPower. Is that what you mean?

The only "toggle" switch I have ever seen on any PC computer is the master power switch found on the back of "some" power supplies (PSUs). Not all PSUs have these switches and they typically are not flipped frequently by most users anyway, except when doing maintenance.

It is important we understand which switch you are talking about. A "toggle" switch is like a wall light switch. You flip it to "On", the circuit completes and the light stays "On" until you flip it to "Off".

Virtually all computers have one or two "push button" "momentary" switches on the front of the PC. One for power and on some computers, one for Reboot. These are not "toggle" switches and work in entirely different ways from toggle switches. You press them, they make momentary electrical contact only while you press. When you release, they are spring loaded and they too release and break contact. Pressing the front panel button switch simply signals the system to "change state". If off, it boots up. If already on, it goes through the shut down process.

Point being, you cannot replace a front panel power button switch with a toggle switch.

There is only +5VDC running through the front panel button switch. This is not enough voltage for you to ever see any sparks or flashes. So we need to understand where you saw this flash come from.

I suspect it came from the PSU as that is the only place where high voltages are located. In most cases (and with a little luck), when a failed PSU shorts out, as appears to have happened here, damage is limited to the supply itself. So I suspect (with fingers crossed) if you replaced the PSU, all will be good. But since everything inside depends on good, clean, stable power, there is no way of telling if collateral damage occurred until you can power those devices up.

There is no way for most users to conclusively test a PSU. To properly and conclusively test a PSU, it must be tested under a variety of realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities.

So swapping in a known good PSU is typically the best bet for most users.

Another option that is almost as good if you don’t have a known good spare supply handy is to use a PSU Tester. They are not conclusive, and cannot ensure a PSU is good. But they can tell you if a PSU is dead or missing one of the required output voltages.

 

Thanks for speedy reply, Bill.

Yes, its a IBuyPower system with upgraded SSSD and Zortek graphics.
U answered my question about the switch. Knew a simple toggle wouldnt work butwasn't sure about inner workings.
The flash was directly under the power switch. I'll get a switch and try it. If all goes well, done. If nothing I'll get new PSU.
Think its a 700 watt.
All disk check out good when plugged into different system so, hope it holds true for other components.
Will keep U posted.


Thanks again,
savagcl

 

Well, again, you didn't tell us which switch you are talking about - the master power switch on the back of the PSU, or the front panel power switch on the front of the computer.

If the front, I wonder if there is an LED in or very near that switch assembly as again, +5VDC is not enough to produce a visible arc. But a failing LED could.

If you mean the front panel power switch, they do wear out or can become damaged. But rather than buy a new one (often not easy to find), if the case has a Reset button switch, I just follow the two wires from the Reset button switch, and follow the two wires from the Power button switch, to where both pairs connect to the motherboard's front panel I/O header. Pull the power switch wires and tie them out of the way. Move the Reset wires to the two pins for the power switch and just use the Reset button as your power switch from now on.

If you mean the master power switch on the back of the PSU, I do not recommend users opening up PSU cases unless they are a qualified electronics technician. Since PSUs plug into the wall, they can kill!

 

Sorry. It's the front panel switch that got the flash. waiting on IBp to see what they say or send a new switch and/or psus. .no reset switches that I can find and no led to see. After talking to ibp I'll order switch and psu then try to put back togeather.
Thanks,
Savagcl

 

Okay. Keep us posted.

 

Forget about IBP PC's. They stock no replacement parts at all. Their comment was to do a search and order a replacement. The OSU is made by SIMTEC, not the best but not the worst. Most seem to recommend an upgrade to a better quality tho.
As far as the front panel power switch, they didn't even respond so that tells me a lot. So now i'm searching for a front panel power micro switch with 3 wires on 1 side and 1 wire on the other side.

savagcl

 

Thanks for the info, TonyT.
Found out that the PSU is of medium quality at best. Now looking for a better quality 600W PSU
that is compatable with this IBP system. Getting a little out-of-range of my knowledge base here.Have no idea which one will work.
I'll visually check the MB.

Thanks,
savagcl

 

Ok, i'm lost. Does it matter which PSU I buy as long as its a 600W?

thanks,
savagcl

 

Hi Clif, Form Factor and dimensions are usually the data you require.
Have a look at this link. https://www.corsair.com/ww/en/Categ...Supply-Units/c/Cor_Products_PowerSupply_Units

Does your Motherboard need power for the CPU?
check whether it is a 4 pin or 8 pin connector on the motherboard.
To keep things tidy these days, a modular PSU will allow only the leads you require - less clutter.

 

There are 2 4 pin connections that I i pulled from the MB if that's what u mean.

 

whats the difference between "modular" and "non-modular"?

savagcl

 

What is this connector for? :
This is supplied by Antec who supply PSU's.
You should be able to identify from the views what is a 12v connector for CPU and what are the fan connectors.
As Pete has explained re Modular supply, most of the early PSU's were supplied with the wiring and board connectors all coming out of the PSU and there were short and long wiring groups available depending on the overall size of the comp.
You had to find places to hide the surplus which sometimes caused cooling air flow problems.

 

retiredlearner,
Now that is good info for a PSU novice to know!

thank you,
savagcl

 

Just to completely close this thread-

New front panel switch = PC don't start, just an initial surge that will move the fan blade less than 1 inch, then dead system.
New PSU = PC don't start, just an initial surge that will move the fan blade less than 1 inch, then dead system.
Resolution = Strip it for parts and recycle.

Its good to have a backup system...
clif

 

Join the annual "E" collection. When computers go 'bad' there is no market for them.
Same with printers and cell phones and other electronic devices these days.
Today we have to realize that when we buy electronic devices we have to be able to say goodbye to them and not to get attached to them.