Resolved New System Build Refuses to POST BIOS

Hello,

I have been working on my first system build ever that uses the following components:

CASE - Cooler Master HAF XM RC-922XM-KKN1 + extra 200mm case fan
PSU - SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold SS-650KM
BOARD - ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77
CPU - Intel Core i7-3770K
RAM - Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10
HDD - Two WD Caviar Black WD1502FAEX 1.5TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb
SSD - Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III
Video Card - EVGA 01G-P3-1361-KR GeForce GTX 460
Blu-Ray Burner - LITE-ON Black 12X BD-R IHBS112-04
Media Card Reader - AFT PRO-57U USB 3.0

The OS will eventually be Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit. For now, nothing is installed. I wanted to use unbuntu to run some s/w to burn in my HDDs first.

I have been following NewEgg's tutorial videos on system building. I did an out of case test, where I had the mobo on a box with the CPU, RAM, video card and PSU. Everything was fine when I started the system and it posted to BIOS. I next installed everything in the case and last night when I turned on the system it would boot and go to the place where it says error, no OS installed. So far so good.

I have been trying to get the system to boot using Ubuntu on a USB drive, but have been running into problems. This morning I burned Ubuntu to a DVD and tried booting that. This is when my new system started acting strange.

I turned it on and the system would start, fans and LEDs would go on, but then after a few seconds it would stop, then it would restart. I would press the power button on the case and nothing would happen. I tried holding down the power button and sometimes the PC would shut off, but other times it would not. All during this time nothing was ever displayed on the monitor. I tried using both DVI ports on my card.

Could this have something to do with the Power and reset switches plugged into the mobo? I was told by support at Cooler Master it didn't matter which way they were inserted (we could not tell which was positive and which was ground). They are inserted in the correct front plate pins, but may be reversed. What is strange is the system worked fine last night.

The PC is plugged into an APC UPS.

I cannot believe my new system is sick like this before I even install an OS! Someone please help!

Thanks!

 

Tony,

Thanks for helping me out. I have been doing a lot of testing and this is definitely more than just a POWER SW issue. I first unplugged all HDDs, SSD and the Blu Ray. I was then able to boot to BIOS and see my 5V power line was only 4.32V and is flagged in red because it is 13%+ below design. Two case fans were also flagged red as they were spinning at 400 rpm instead of 700 rpm. I then disconnected all case fans - no difference. I just pulled the video card and the 5V line still shows a problem. I think I did the wiring to the PSU correctly. I am starting to worry that either my PSU is bad or my mobo is bad (which would be horrible). Some are saying I need a much larger PSU - in the neighborhood of 800W or 1000W. Any suggestions?

 

Hi Tony,
I went out and purchased a voltage meter from Radio Shack. I tested the power with one of the Molex cables. It was only 4.3V versus 5.0. This is very consistent with what the BIOS was telling me. I have obtained an RMA from NewEgg and will be sending it back. Now I need to select a different PSU (and not from SeaSonic). Several have recommended OCZ and Corsair. Do you have a favorite brand? Since my problem is effectively solved, I am going to close this thread. Thanks agin!

 

Antec or Corsair is what I have used and never had a problem. They all make good ones, The all have bad ones once in a while.

 

I would remove the motherboard and make sure you don't have any extra standoffs or other foreign objects under the board.

+4.3VDC is well below the ±5% tolerance of +4.75V allowed by the ATX Form Factor standard so it certainly appears there's an issue with the PSU. But note testing a PSU with a multi-meter is not conclusive for several reasons.

To test a PSU properly and conclusively, it must be done while the PSU is under a variety of "realistic" loads. If you tested at a Molex connector while the computer was running normally, then that is good - IF that rail is under a load. But also, most multi-meters don't test for ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results.

This is why swapping in a know good PSU is often the only, but best means for many users to test if their PSU is good, or not. At any rate - Newegg can't be beat so you will get another PSU to swap in anyway.

And this Bill agrees. Pretty much anything Antec puts out (PSUs, cases - I really like their cases - case fans and probably more) is good stuff. And they stand behind their products. There was a time a few years back where a few of their popular PSU models (not their high-end stuff) had higher than normal failure rates - all from one particular factory, from what I understand. But, they changed factories (and countries) and designs - all for the better.

 

OCZ also make very good PSUs - I have one in my machine and it's rock solid.

 

Hmmm, and so does Mushkin. Something about RAM makers and PSUs seems to go well together.

 

They are right. There is no polarity (positive or negative) concerns with the front panel reset and power buttons. They are simple momentary button switches that simply complete a circuit by shorting two pins together. Swapping the polarity on the LED (power or HD activity) pins may result in the LEDs not lighting, however.