Need help to get machine up.

Recently my CPU started running at 150F. Whe shut down, it refused to power back up.
Using an old backup machine, a Google search lead me to a page on my motherboard that showed a red light that was an indicator of a dead motherboard.
Purchased a new board. Installed and connected everything correctly, hit the power button. Nothing. Power supply ready light doesn't even come on even though light on motherboard burns.
Tech at repair shop down thestreet said CPU dead. Bought a new CPU. Installed it. Nothing.
Former member of the Geek Squad looked at it and suggested a bad power supply. Hooked up a known good PSU. Guess what. Nothing.
Monitor stays black with glowing ready light. Hard drive stays inactive.
On my own, I have removed the floppy drive,CD drive and all but 1 stick of RAM. No good.
Jumping pins 14 and 15 on power connector causes old and new PSUs to operate.Nothing when connected and button on front panel is pressed. Jumping the 2 pins on the switch doesn't help.
Machine is a Gateway E4100 mid-size tower.
Motherboard is Intel D865GLC.
CPU is P4 3.4GHz HT (socket 478)
Would really like to get this going again.

 

Machines that "suddenly" start running hot usually indicates a failed fan.

The motherboard LED means the power supply is putting out +5Vsb standby voltage - it does not mean it puts out it's other voltages (3.3V, 5, and 12V) properly.

With a new CPU and a different PSU, and by removing all but the minimum, this looks like your motherboard fried. . You can pull the hard drives too and swap in a different RAM, you should see the boot process start, then halt when it cannot find the boot drive. You can also pull the motherboard battery for 30 seconds or so, and try to boot directly into the BIOS Setup Menu - if successful, set date and time, then save and exit to see if it boot properly - but don't hold your breath.

 

Have already got new motherboard and CPU together with a new HSF( old was 16.5CFM, new fan is 48.2CFM).
Already removed the CMOS battery for 1 hour before replacing. No help.
Already disconnected all drives(floppy,CD-ROM) from system.
Already tried with a single stick of RAM (4 times, once with each stick)
Neither PSU will give any response when connected to the machine.Both work when pins are jumpered together.
No response when pins on power switch are jumpered.
Monitor gives message "Going To Sleep ", then goes black with ready light burning.

 

"All" drives means hard drives too. If a drive suffered an electronic failure (as opposed to a mechanical failure), it may be affecting attached devices (motherboard or PSU) in an adverse way. Disconnect hard drives too to verify. USB devices too.

What does "work" mean? Just coming on does not mean it works correctly. Two PSUs doing the same thing is a good sign the PSUs are not the problem, but unless you can "properly" test a PSU, the only real way to know if a PSU works properly is when the computer is running properly, or you swap in one you KNOW to be good, and of ample power.

I use a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester for power supply (PSU) testing when I am away from home. It is not as good as a qualified technician testing the PSU under a "true " (realistic) load with an oscilloscope or power analyzer, but close. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you can better detect a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range ". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed ". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, not a true load. Alternatively, you can swap out the PSU with a known good one that meets the computer's power requirements.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This then requires poking (with some considerable force) two, hard and sharp, highly conductive, meter probes into the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it.

So, you have replaced the motherboard, CPU, and PSU, tested with 4 RAM sticks individually, and the problem still exists. If me, I would pull everything from the case and set the motherboard onto a hard, flat, non-conductive surface. Leave the CPU and HSF attached. Connect only the monitor and 1 stick of RAM, keyboard and PSU - NO drives - that means no hard drives either. Then momentarily short the two pins on the motherboard to signal the PSU to start.

Again, you should see on your monitor the initial stages of the boot process, then it will fail when no boot drive is found - if not before - but you should see something. If nothing - and you are sure the PSU, CPU, and RAM (and monitor) are good, then your motherboard is toast.

If it appears to work outside the case, then one of the detached devices may be faulty, or something inside the case is not right. You can start adding devices one a time to test them. For the case, you MUST ensure there are no extra standoffs in the case, shorting the motherboard when installed. All cases support 1000s of motherboards, so there will always be more standoff holes than motherboard mounting holes. You must ensure standoffs are only located where there is a corresponding mounting hole. Then be 100% certain you are attaching the front panel wires to the correct pair of front panel I/O header pins. You do not need to connect any LED or RST wires at this time - only the power switch. If it works, then attach the other wires.

Do ensure you observe necessary ESD precautions to prevent destroy any sensitive devices (like CPUs and memory modules) from static shocks.

With the PC shutting down, that indicates the monitor is not getting a video signal. No real surprise there.

 

OK. Will try without hard drive installed. Had always assumed that was essential.
Motherboard is an exact replacement. Made sure of that when ordering. Drew diagrams showing where connections were before removing.

 

It is if you want to do anything with your hardware - but not for this type testing.

 

Disconnected EVERYTHING but monitor,motherboard, and PSU.
Change in action = none
Change in irritation = extreme
About ready to write it off and purchase a NEW machine(while I still have some of my hair)

 

Gotta have at least 1 stick of RAM too.

I feel your pain. Some times it is best to have another set of eyes look at it. Perhaps you should take it in to a shop. They will have the necessary tools and spare parts to troubleshoot, and are responsible for any collateral damage.

 

A repair shop was next on my list, but will install some RAM and try again first.
Have already purchased another machine from eBay. (IBM 8090-21V, P4 3.0GHz HT) to be used in network with Gateway (if it gets back up and running). IBM is small form factor, smaller than Gateway(12x12x4).

 

Already tried with 4 different sticks of RAM, 2 different PSUs, and 2 different monitors.All with no change.
Running out of ideas myself.
Nearest repair shop is 25+ miles away. Got a trip ahead of me.

 

Sorry could not be of more help. But as a repair guy, some times you just got to touch and feel for your self, before knowing which way to proceed.

 

Thanks for trying, though. Never know when someone else will see something else you overlook. Probably turn out to be something simple in the end.
Will let you know on final results when I get it back.

 

Sounds like a plan.