For The Greater Minds: Black Screen w/ White Cursor, Only Different

I hesitate to interfere but this seems relevant.

There is reason to believe that the agp440.sys driver may be causing your hang problem due to a corrupt video chip set driver. Please See This.

There is also an outside chance that setting your BIOS/CMOS back to default values may allow booting. Try that first since it's easiest.

If no joy, then do the MS procedure outlined in the link.

 

I'm not sure which of these to try first:

Digging up the window's cd's as Pete posted...do surferdude's quick boot disk...find another battery...set my BIOS/CMOS back to default values...etc.

I apologize for the confusion, but which should I try first.

Also, to noahdfear...I let the safe mode run when it seemed frozen for nearly an hour when the battery died, but got no results.

 

Hi pcoste1...

FYI...I've bought a few Laptop batteries and keyboards from Impact Computers and have no issues with any part purchased.
- Dell Inspiron 1150 => http://www.impactcomputers.com/dellparts--parts-for-dell-inspiron-parts-for-dell-inspiron-1150.html
- Batteries here starting on page 3 => http://www.impactcomputers.com/dell...arts-for-dell-inspiron-1150-power-supply.html

 

The Quick Boot disk was a broad range hip shot for earlier diagnostics and you are far beyond that stage so forget it.

Since your battery is bad, I'd recommend getting a new one before doing anything else. Let's face it, you'll need it anyway, right?

Then if it still has issues, post back to this same thread and go further.

 

I've been following this thread with interest for a few days and feel compelled to make a couple of comments. First, lets get right to the heart of the issue with a recommendation. If you consider this machine a keeper - send it out to an authorized repair facility.

Now, why such a radical departure from a fix it yourself approach?

The fact that your machine will not power on with the AC/DC adapter connected indicates a potential problem with the AC connector, an inverter or an onboard power controller.

The AC connector may be a surface mount or a modular type and I'm too lazy right now to pull up a schematic. The fact that you can charge your battery tends to diminish the validity of this diagnosis but we can't rule it out either. Let's also dispel the comment that your laptop battery is responsible for holding your BIOS information and is thus a potential cause of boot failure - this is incorrect. There is a seperate CMOS button battery that holds these settings and it is possible that this needs to be replaced but the fact that you can start the boot process in safe mode suggests that this is still working correctly.

Although an inverter's primary function is tied to your LCD display, a flakey inverter can cause intermittent freezing, screen blackouts and ultimately, total boot failure. The same thing can happen with a faulty power controller but this usually manifests itself as a dead machine.

Now, I can't say that any one of these is the cause of your problem but I don't think we are going to resolve your problem without a bench analysis of your machine and specific internal components. If you are willing to spend roughly $75 for this type of analysis from a factory authorized service center, you will get a cost estimate for fixing whatever needs to be fixed. If you want to try swapping out components yourself, it will probably cost you considerably more unless you get lucky.

From my perspective, your best option is to send this out for a repair estimate but don't make the mistake of taking it to your local repair shop - few have the equipment or expertise to deal with this.



edit: The following does not change my recommendation re: sending this out for repair but it does shed some additional light on your laptop problem. Apparently there was a problem with the 1100's and the 5150 as noted in the following comment:

"Try tapping on the case of your computer between the blue buttons used for mouse clicks and the edge of the case near the three led lights. A very small reed switch sits just under this area. When it starts to fail your computer will not turn on. Tap with finger tips ten or so times and try the power button. Try this several times if necessary. This made my computer turn on finally. Verifying a bad switch. This is the switch that controls the stand by function when you close your lid. The lid has a magnet in it and when the lid closes it pulls the metal switch contacts closed. You can find replacement parts on eBay. Look for the printed circuit board that has the switches for the mouse left and right click which sit just under the blue buttons. The little reed switch sits on this board. It looks like a little glass tube. I replaced mine and I am using my Dell 1100 to send this message. Remove the blue strip with a butter knife that covers the power button. Remove the four screws that hold down the keyboard. The remove the four screws that hold the top attachment for the display to the laptop. Remove the two screws from the back edge of the computer, which hold the back attachments for the display. The display can be removed carefully. Lift the tape holding the attached display cable down and leave for re-taping the cable down. Remove the screws on the bottom of the case. You will find one behind the battery area. You should find the top of the case will separate from the computer. Inside the top of the case is a chrome cover over a circuit board with five chrome screws. Remove the five screws. You will find on the edge of this board a switch that looks like a glass tube. Do not do this if you have any reason to believe you can’t do it with out breaking something! This fixed my computer and is the reason many of these computers are being parted out and sold. So ask questions before buying parts. Ask the seller if this part came from a laptop with the problem you are having. It will save you trouble to know the part you install. Remember this is easy for someone who can do work like this but not a job for everyone and this description is guidelines not the manufactures procedures. Things may vary use common sense! "

Here is a link for making a similar but different power related repair on the Dell 1100 and 5150.

These only confirm my earlier suggestion to send this out.

 

Thanks for putting that in Rockster. Rockster sent me a message and queried my original information. I was under the impression from something I read that there may not be a CMOS battery installed in recent models. Sorry if that was the impression (I could not confirm the information, Dell does not supply service manuals).

I'll try not to make any further suggestion. I know IBM/Lenovos and have parts to swap out. There appears to be some sort of power problem. That probably leads to the flashing cursor and driver(?) problems.

Rockster's suggestion of getting it tested is the way you would know for certain. I asked myself what alternatives there might be. If the battery no longer holds a charge, it needs to be replaced, unless you can and want to run it off AC power. If the problem is say, the AC adapter/charger, that will be $30 (one price I found).
So... if Dell give you a report, $75.
It looks like it needs a new battery anyway ~$100.
=$175 before any repairs.

I would consider opening it to check the power problems Rockster pointed out or getting an AC adapter if the battery did not fix the problem ($100 + $30). [The output voltage can be tested with a voltmeter and I haven't come across a "partially broken" adapter.] After that the problem would be internal. Dell will charge just for opening it. I doubt they will solder anything, just replace parts.

How much would you spend on it before the money would be better spent towards the cost of a new one? How much did you spend on buying it and how much life have you had out of it?

Rockster is correct. You would need to get it tested to find the cause. We can only guess at the problem because of the strange symptoms.

Me, I would investigate those solder problems, then consider spending the $130. I would consider getting it tested if it was "valuable ".

[PS see if you can run diagnostics on the HDD, it could be failing.]

Matt

 

Matt makes a very good point re: throwing good money after bad and as usual, he's being very nice about it. Its probably not worth investing any more than $100 and that assumes that $100 would result in a perfectly good working machine. You may want to see what you can pick up on ebay in terms of a working Inspiron 1100 or keep trolling at Computer Geeks until they offer some factory refurbs. But wait - there's more to this story.

 

Ok so I've been having trouble keeping up with the new ideas on the laptop.
But before I start considering options I thought it might be a good idea if I were to explain the situation once more before asking for final opinions on how to go about things:

I bought a refurbished Dell Inspiron 1150 in September of '04 for a little more than $1,000. It has worked great save for some issues of the backlights dying twice (once Dell handled it, and about a year ago I had to pay about $120 for new ones to be put in). The hard drive blew a little less than a year ago and I spent about $100 on a new hard drive and installed it myself.
For a good while now (5 months?) the batter has been flickering indicating it is dying, and I have been using the computer primarily with the AC adapter plugged in, as the charge holds for a short while.
Just last week I was using the internet browser when the computer froze completely (mouse cursor and all). I turned the power off and rebooted. When I rebooted all I got was a black screen with the white cursor. That is when I posted on here. As it turned out, the black screen w/ a white cursor went away as soon as I tried booting up without the AC adapter plugged in.
I could boot into safe mode, but the regular mode just froze at the Windows status bar. Also, I found I could boot into safe mod with no battery plugged in - only AC adapter- but still could not find a way into booting in regular mode. I followed the instructions of Pete when in safe mode:

"Start > Run > type in cmd > Enter
In the command window which opens type cd\ at the flashing cursor and hit Enter which will take you to C:\ prompt
At the C:\ prompt type chkdsk /r > Enter.
You should receive a message that the drive cannot be locked .... schedule to run at next boot - answer Yes and reboot. "

When I tried to reboot, the status bar still froze in regular mode, and in safe mode it never got past a certain point (I wrote out the line at which it stops every time in a previous post). So now I can no longer get back into the computer, but thankfully my friend PeteC had me backup my necessary information off the laptop before I got shut out.
So this is where I now stand. I haven't done anything with regards to the BIOS/getting a new battery/putting in the Windows CD/etc. I ask everyone now, what to do? Should I even bother with the laptop? If so, what is my best course of action for recovering the computer? Thanks to all you guys for your help so far.

-Patrick

 

Thanks for that explanation Patrick. Considering what you have just summarized, I would remove the battery and while using the AC/DC power converter only, turn on your machine while tapping the F8 key on your keyboard or following whatever might first appear on your screen as the key for Setup. That will get you into your BIOS if we have any life left in that puppy.

Now, don't do anything - just let it sit and run while in the BIOS or Setup Mode. Go watch a movie or cook some dinner or do whatever but let it sit for an hour or two to make a determination of whether or not it will keep running. In a couple of hours you can hit F10 and exit the BIOS. Then you can shutdown and post.

Let us know what happens.

 

Rockster and Pete thank you for the help...I turned the laptop on with no battery only AC plugged in...hit F2 and see the set up screen and within about 2 minutes, it froze. Now when I turn the laptop on with only AC and no battery I am back at the black screen with white cursor.

Should I try to turn it on and hit F2 with the battery plugged in and charged as much as I can get it?

 

No, that's not necessary. Other members may have some other suggestions or ideas but I think you have a problem similar to what I've already posted and it's going to require bench analysis.



edit: Added after reading Matt's post below - I don't think any of us like throwing in the towel but I personally am at a loss and the fact that it won't run while in the BIOS Setup mode is not a good sign at all. Unless this machine is extremely dirty and it overheated, thus prompting an automatic shutdown, something inside is not working. Look around here to determine what it might be worth if it was working.

 

I can't add much more.

Refurbished from 2004 is quite a reasonable lifespan. I generally expect a lifespan of 4 years, then I am not surpised if things start breaking down or it seems out-of-date compared to newer models (and that is a new machine). Considering the odd repairs, I think the machine has worked well for you.

I couldn't pinpoint any specific cause, you could be looking at (at least) a new battery, anywhere up to a new motherboard. You could possibly find the parts are no longer available (at least from Dell). You may get it fixed and something else breaks soon after.

The decision is yours. As I said, after 4 years service, if the machine has been very reliable and it is not getting "dated" for my needs, I will look at keeping it going, but then again, I have the facilities to analyse problems myself.

Matt