Memory, Floppy, CD-ROM, & DVD Drives

Dear People….

I’ve been working on some software problems in the Anti-Malware Forum, and developed some hardware problems during the thread.

The fellow with whom I’ve been working suggested I try this forum.

I hope you can help.

I decided to increase my memory from 512 MB to 2 GB, and purchased two 1 GB sticks.

What follows is the sequence of events as posted in the other forum. The info may seem disjointed, because it represents several posts (with some edits):

I bought them at a store I’ve known in the past to have very knowledgeable salespeople.

When I told the salesperson what I wanted, she handed me two sticks of 1 GB each. I actually questioned her about her choice, because they didn’t seem to be what I needed, but she assured me they were.

She was wrong.

When I installed them and booted, only one (two slots available) was recognized.

I have a little program called PC Wizard, which gives much more detail than System Information, and when I ran it, it showed DIMM 2 as empty. But farther down the page, it showed that there was, in fact, a stick installed in DIMM 2.

I’m not certain I remember the sequence that followed accurately, but I think it’s close.

I took the stick from DIMM 2 and replaced the one in DIMM 1 to make sure they were both working.

Then I put the first stick into the second slot, and rebooted.

At some point after that, the machine recognized both sticks, and Setup confirmed it.

I ran PC Wizard again, and it, also, recognized DIMM 2.

Then the fun started….all by itself, the machine reverted to 1 GB, and it was at some point after that, that I saw the two BSODs I spoke of, back-to-back after each of two Windows starts.

So I removed both sticks, and went back to my one 512 KB stick.

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[Edit] I downloaded and opened a program called Memtest86, which requires making a floppy to run.

When I tried it, I got a message that the disk wasn’t formatted (it was).

I went through the format/write process several times, with the same result.

Then I checked my CD-ROM (R/W) and my DVD (Read only) drives, and both had problems.

The CD-ROM drive drawer button wouldn’t work when I tried ejecting a blank disk.

(At the suggestion of my other forum helper, I used Device Manager to uninstall the drive and reboot, and for a while the button worked. It’s since gone back to locking, but I’ve found that right-clicking on the drive in My Computer, allows the drawer to open).

The DVD drive light remained on with a blank disk, but the drawer opened OK.

It seems to work with a disk that has information on it.

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Needless to say, I returned the two 1 GB sticks, and exchanged them for 1 of what I’m reasonably certain is the right one. (In fact, the salesman had to go to the stock room to find it….my machine is 5 years old, and I guess everything in it is obselete).

However, I’m not going to try it until I get my machine straightened out.

Besides the problems I’ve listed in my previous post, there was also at least one change in Setup; I got a message that the CPU speed was too high, and when I checked, it was set at 2667 MHz. When I switched to Manual, the message didn’t reappear, so I guess I must have done something right.

I reset the BIOS to default, and hopefully, the manual settings I chose afterwards are reasonably close to being correct.

That’ll teach me not to squeak by without writing down the settings.

I hope this information will prove helpful, so that we can resolve my floppy and CD-ROM problems. (Haven’t found anything else, so far, but who knows?)

The CD-ROM drive that locks shut with a disk in it, will open and close OK when empty.

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….let me quote from the motherboard manual:

“2 x 184-pin DIMM sockets support for PC2700/……non ECC DDR DIMMs for up to 2GB memory." (166 MHz) (DDR-333)

There are also two slots for 1 GB each of SDRAM (168-pin)

The PC Wizard info for the new ( returned) sticks read "DDR-SDRAM PC-3200 (200 MHz) "“ [DDR-400]â€

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I opened the computer to check the connector seating of the floppy drive cable. As far as I could tell, it was seated properly. Checked the others, also.

While I had the case open, I decided to try my new 1 GB memory stick (I had returned the first ones about two weeks ago for an exchange).

For some reason, it didn’t work, either.

Among other things, I got two BSODs; both the same, this time.

I never got to the desktop, so I couldn’t check either SIW or PC Wizard for the specs.

At one point I entered Safe Mode, but couldn’t navigate very much.

The stick is marked PC2700-25330 (?), DD333-1G/BJ (?) and 1 GB 333MHz CL2.5 (which I presume is the voltage).

Except for the extra numbers and letters, it sure sounds like the right one.

I checked the manufacturer’s website, and the only other choice with the PC2700 designation is one for 72 bits, as opposed to 64 bits.

The only thing I noticed for sure, was that during POST, while the memory count was taking place, the line above it said the CPU speed was 2000 MHz, instead of 2667, which is not only the correct speed, but that’s what Setup reads.

I put my 512 MB stick back. Looks like I’m at a dead end.

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That’s the end of my previous posts.

Once, while tilting the computer onto its side, it slipped out of my fingers about one inch above the surface.

I mention this in case it was responsible for my floppy and CD-ROM/DVD drives problems.

I hope all this makes sense.

Sorry it’s so long, but that’s what happens when someone doesn’t know what he’s doing.

P.S. I just tried an install disk in the drive with the locked button, and the drawer opened OK. (One time or not, I don’t know)

Please help.

 

Actually pull out and reseat the cable connections, both at the drive and at the motherboard. Reseat the power connections. Basically, fully reseat all the connections, it sounds like a dodgy one there somewhere.

Single-sided and double-sided RAM modules may have an influence. I suggest you go to the manufacturer of the RAM's website, most have a listing of which models are compatible with which motherboards.

I don't expect it should have an influence, but modules may have slightly more size than expected, so instead of exactly 2048 MB, you might have, say, 2060 MB and you are at the limit of the m/b capability. RAM can be somewhat hit and miss. If the m/b is not listed in the RAM manufacturer's compatibility list, you are "on your own ".

Disconnect the cables to one or other optical drives while you run setup. You will find a manual for download at the manufacturer's website, check the jumper setting information (try reversing them as master/slave, depending on how they are set). One of the drives may be failing.

Matt
PS Check that you may be overloading the power supply or that the PSU may be failing.

 

Running 3 Systems around the same age, some of those old boards like Mattman points out are a bit sensitive in regards to single and double sided, and double sided is usually the preferred option also for stable operation you might not be able to use 1 Gig Ram sticks try 2 x 512mb if you only have 2 slots.
For your CD -DVD Burner I would try a different unit just to see if the problem is related to that unit installed.
hawk22

 

Matt and hawk22:

Thank you both, and I’ll answer "in the order received.â€

Matt…..

You’ve given me a lot of "homework," which I’ll get to within the next couple of days.

But first, I have some questions/info:

I went onto the memory stick manufacturer’s site, and called up my motherboard model. The module listed is the one I have.

I’ve not heard of single-sided vs. double-sided RAM, but I’d guess it refers to whether one or both sides of the module is/are populated. Mine is double-sided, in that case.

I have the manuals for the CD-R/RW and DVD-ROM drives.

You said to disconnect one of them while running setup. I assume you meant that I should disconnect first, and then run setup. What am I looking for in setup that would indicate the drive’s status?

(According to Device Manager, all three drives are working properly).

Regarding the power supply…..the only voltages I can check without using a voltmeter are the ones associated with the motherboard, and they’re all within range.

The supply is 300 watts, and has been able to carry the current my machine has been drawing since I’ve had it, without any problems. I haven’t added anything, except that I use a couple of external drives, which are disconnected until used once a week for backing up.

Of course, I may have done damage when I had my memory problems. If it’s any clue, I did hear beeps at least once, but didn’t count them. Also, there had been a constant tone more than once, and I tried turning the machine off as quickly as possible.

Would the text of the BSODs be of any help?

It just strikes me as weird that all three drives developed problems at the same time, and the only thing that happened preceding those problems was my attempt to install a new memory board.

At any rate, I guess we can discuss these things after I go through your check list.

Thanks.

Hawk22…..

I guess you read my answer to Matt regarding single- vs. double-sided sticks.

As far as the configuration is concerned, all I have to go by is the motherboard manual, which says that I’m allowed 2 GB of memory in two slots.

I checked the manual for any jumpers that might limit the size I’m allowed to use, but there aren’t any that I could find.

That doesn’t negate your observation about the size limitations, however.

But for now, I’ll leave well enough alone; at least, until I get my drive problems squared away.

It’s strange that the wrong sticks got me to the desktop, but the one that’s supposed to be the right one never let me get that far.

Perhaps there’s something I have to do in setup.

In fact, I tried setting the CPU speed to Manual (that has to be a misnomer; it reads in MHz), but my LAN stopped working, so I reverted to the fixed speed (frequency).

Probably, the CPU external frequency has a value other than the one I chose. I’m not allowed to change the CPU frequency multiple.

When I reset setup to default, the CPU speed was set at the preset frequency, so that’s where I’d better leave it.

And my LAN works fine.

I don’t have any spare drives, so I can’t try a different unit, as you suggested.

Darn it!

Thanks.

 

Hi catswhisker, well you sure have a bit of a problem, there are a couple of things that you can try.
Personally I like the Microsoft Memory tester but in your present situation no go.
Ram DDR 400 or PC3200 same thing is backward compatible to your DDR333 or PC2700 so this should not have caused any problems as a rule.
But there is a possibility that you might have zapped your board doing it maybe just enough to have thrown your BIOS out.
Check your CPU's model and go to the manufacturers website to find out its frequency setting and multiplier then set that correctly in your BIOS, but before you do this I have a suspicion that you might be best off to reset your BIOS, contact Matt as he will be able to guide you as to the best way to reset. You might have a Jumper or you might have to quickly remove the BIOS Battery.
Then set your Frequency and Multiplier.
Also set your BIOS to Fail Safe or something of that nature.
I would then reconnect one drive at a time to allow windows to recognize them.
I know it is all a lot of work but sometimes it is better to start from scratch.
Keep us informed on how you are progressing
hawk22

 

Hi, hawk22…Thanks a lot for the detailed info.

You confirmed my suspicion that I had probably zapped the PC2700.

That would explain the two identical BSODs; and why I never got to the desktop.

I wish I had known that the DDR400/PC3200 boards I had in the first place were backward compatible. To me, the difference meant two different sets of parameters. I might have spent more time trying to get at least one of them working.

Each gave the appearance of working in slot 1, so when the one in slot 2 was recognized only once (and then for only a short time), it occurred to me that the contacts in slot 2 might be oxidized (unlikely, I’m sure). But when I got those two different BSODs, I decided to give up.

I think you’re right about my having damaged one or both of them, though..

I ain’t doing so good.

The reason for this post is to show you what I was confronted with in BIOS Setup.

I tried Intel’s site, at your suggestion, but my eyes glazed over trying to interpret their info.

However, I have a program called PC Wizard, which gave me what you told me to look for.

Please note that it says the multiplier is locked, so I’m stuck at 20X.

Real Frequency : 2659.94 MHz
Multiplier : 20x
Low/High Multiplier : 20x / 20x
Multiplier Locked : Yes
Marketing Frequency : 2660 MHz

Front Side Bus Information :
Bus Speed : 133 MHz
FSB Frequency : 532 MHz (QDR)

Initial Frequencies :
Frequency : 2666 MHz
FSB Frequency : 133 MHz
Multiplier : 20x

The difference in nomenclature in my manual had me baffled.

Since I chose a bus frequency of 133/33 (I don’t know what the "˜/33’ means), it should have worked.

You may very well be right about the BIOS needing surgery.

At any rate, I’m waiting to hear from Matt in response to my last post, so I’ll ask him about it.

Thanks.

 

just a quick mention if you could tell us the make and model of the Motherboard and CPU and it's frequency that would help to get a better picture.
hawk22

 

Motherboard = ASUS P4S533-MX
CPU = Intel Pentium 4
Frequency = 2.66 GHz
BIOS = Award, Rev. 1006
RAM = 512 MB

I hope this helps.

If you’d like any other info, please let me know, and I’ll try to supply it.

Thanks.
catswhisker

 

Hi catswhisker, your CPU setting in the BIOS looks OK, 133MHz (533Mhz) FSB and 20X Multiplier is correct according to Intel. Voltage is 1.525
I would still clear the BIOS and then reconnect one drive at a time and listen for the post you should have just one short beep.
If you are game enough you can clear the BIOS yourself if you check in your Motherboard Manual you will find that there is a Jumper that you will have to move for 10 or 20 seconds after you have disconnected your 20 (24) pin power to the Motherboard.
But if you don't feel comfortable to do it don't do it, give Matt or Rockster2you a PM and I am sure that they will give you the best guidance to follow it through.
Also insert the 512mb or 1Gig module of ram into the correct slot usually marked Dimm 1.
please keep us informed as to your progress.
regards
hawk22

 

We (you?) seem to be concentrating on RAM. Do you get a strong feeling it is a RAM problem by your tests?

"Damage the RAM ", unless you have physically damaged them, say, broken the connectors, they are hard to "damage ". The gold connectors are to make the best possible connection in the slots. If you put your fingers on the connectors, they can get coated in oil from your fingers. If the computer is in a smoky location, there are smokers around or it is near the kitchen, greasy dust could have been pushed into the slots. In this case, you will need to some "Contact Cleaner" from an electronics store or office suppliers and spray the connectors and slots well (make certain it is well dissipated before startup). The modules could possible have been overheated (heat damaged).

Hawk is talking about Clearing the CMOS. I think you should first try going into the BIOS settings and look for a selection like "Setup Defaults ". Also look for a setting "Quick POST" or "Quick Boot ", disable that, with the changes, the system needs to do a Full POST. (Hawk, if the system is set to Quick POST, you will not hear a beep, you will only hear the beep when the BIOS is set to Full POST.)

Try investigating those.

Matt

 

Hi, Gang…

I was preparing to post the following reply to Hawk, when I saw Matt’s response, so I’ll answer accordingly.

Hello, again, hawk22…

I think I may have miscommunicated about my CPU settings.

When I set them to Manual (and apparently I chose the settings correctly) I can’t go online…something to do with the System and/or PCI bus, I think.

I have to run with the fixed CPU speed (2667 MHz) to go online.

I don’t know why that should be true…I suspect it’s part of my problems.

News Flash! After that last sentence, I decided to try going Manual one more time.

Son-of-a-gun, if it didn’t work.

Inexplicable, unless I had a coincidental problem of not being able to connect via my hardware firewall. It’s happened before….I can go online if I bypass the firewall, and connect the modem directly. And just as suddenly, it’ll work again later.

The LAN had nothing to do with it, as I had previously thought.

Also, I discovered that my floppy drive is working OK. For some unknown reason, the “disk isn’t formatted” problem seems to be associated with the Memtest86 program itself.

You suggested I clear the BIOS, and reconnect my drives one at a time, listening for one beep.

Once again, I probably didn’t make it clear that I’m getting only one beep now, since I returned to my original memory stick (DIMM 1, of course)

I checked online, and found out that a continuous beep (which I had) indicates a memory problem, which I don’t seem to have right now.

Do you recommend I disconnect/reconnect my drives anyhow?

Now, I hope you’ll forgive a couple of dumb questions:

First, what’s the difference between setting the BIOS to Default, and removing the CMOS battery?

If I go the battery route, will all the BIOS entries disappear, so that I’d have to enter them manually? I have to tell you that I’m a professional coward, and I’d rather not do that.

If I did, I would suppose it might be a good idea to put in a new battery, considering the age of my machine.

Second, with regard to my DVD-ROM drive light remaining on with a blank disk inserted----is there any possibility that this is normal? I’m thinking that since the drive is read only, it might keep searching for data which isn’t there. (Just wishful thinking)

I’ll follow your cue and send a PM to Matt.

Thanks, again.
catswhisker

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Matt…

I don’t believe I was concentrating on RAM, except that the drive problems I was having apparently began during my attempts to install new RAM sticks.

To review…..when I tried writing to my floppy drive, I’d keep getting a message that the disk wasn’t formatted, even though it was. As you probably saw from my answer to hawk, that problem seems to be resolved.

When I place a blank disk into my CD-R/W drive, the button won’t open the tray, but using the ‘eject’ feature on the drive in My Computer will.

Rebooting will also allow the drawer to open.

With a disk containing data, the button will work.

(The guy I’ve been working with in the Malware forum had told me to uninstall the drive via Device Manager, and reboot).

The other problem is with my DVD-ROM drive, whereby the drive light remains on until I eject the disk (the button works OK on this drive).

Once again, if there’s data on the disk, the light will go out.

A couple of times, I have returned the BIOS to default, but it had no effect on the drive problems.

I don’t use Quick Post, although I wasn’t aware that the beep wouldn’t work if I did.

Just about the only things I’ve changed in the BIOS are setting the CPU speed to Manual, changing the boot sequence, and probably a couple of others that I don’t recall.

As far as I know, I haven’t done anything terrible, but if you’d like to know exactly what I did, I’ll try to figure it out.

Since using the defaults didn’t affect my drive problems, I would imagine that nothing I did had any effect, either.

But what do I know?

(Any chance that something happened to the BIOS during my RAM problem?)

Your thoughts, please?

Thanks.

catswhisker

 

Your optical drive problems sound similar to those I have seen with UDF Format programs, namely Ahead (Nero) InCD. If you have that program, try uninstalling it.

Matt

 

Nero came with my machine.

I use it infrequently, but have never had any problems.

Yesterday, I uninstalled it, but it took some doing, because Add/Remove didn’t remove very many files.

So I did it manually, and got a couple of messages warning me that if I removed it, other programs might not work.

It wasn’t until I deleted the Registry entries that any change became apparent, but the indication was that the bloody program was, at least, implicated in the problem.

I say implicated, because the results were inconsistent.

The button on the CD-R/RW drive opened the drawer several times, but then wouldn’t work, and I had to revert to the My Computer eject feature.

Then it would be OK for a while, but would stop working again.

‘Round and "˜round.

Today, I didn’t fare as well. The button worked only once, if at all, before I had to eject electronically. Mostly, the button doesn’t work without going into My Computer, but it seems to be the fact that it works more consistently if I simply have the drive highlighted.

That’s a little strange, and it’s still inconsistent.

Regarding the DVD-ROM drive, the drive light went out twice after about thirty seconds yesterday, but then stopped going out at all. Also, if I left the disk in the tray much longer than that, there seemed to be a low-level rumble-type sound coming from the drive.

The same was true today, except that the light never went out with a disk in the tray.

(By the way, shouldn’t the light blink?)

Just an observation…..

The only reason I checked the operation of the optical drives, was because of the problem I was having with my floppy drive, which I assumed was the result of my RAM problems, and that all drives could have been affected.

I suspect there may have been no connection, and the drive problems might have preceded the Memory issue.

Who knows?

Catswhisker

P.S. I’ve noticed, at least the past several times, that the Full POST beep was absent.

 

C/w, I got a little lost with your last reply. Do you think the RAM and floppy drive problems are resolved? I don't know of those things affecting the optical drive/s. You should probably look at them as separate problems before thinking that they stem from the same source.

I was concentrating on trying to remove the InCD program (it is listed as a separate program to Nero), BUT it seems the uninstall worked for a while. SO...I would still concentrate on InCD/Nero. If you have problems uninstalling a program, first, try reinstalling it again, then uninstalling it again. If you still cannot get it uninstalled, reinstall again, but uninstall in Safe Mode. (Personally, I don't edit the registry unless I find highly qualified guidelines.)

These "appear" to be uninstallers:
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/Uninstallers/Nero-Clean-Tool-Bundle.shtml
http://www.bumpersoft.com/Utilities/Uninstallers_and_Disk_Cleaners/D_13389_index.htm
I can't vouch for their operation. You may want to investigate them with websearches.

Try resetting the filters:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060/en-us

You don't say whether you have been able to carry out our suggestions. For example, I reckon "being a coward" about resetting the defaults in the BIOS is worse than making changes in the first place. If I think there is something wrong in the BIOS, I reset it immediately. The default settings should work fine, you should only have to change minor items...if necessary. You can cause more problems than you fix by "tinkering ". (If you think changing a setting may work, try it (with caution), but if does not have the desired effect, go back and reset it to the original setting.)

Matt

 

C/w, Matt, Nero can be a real problem uninstalling it is a very good program but like Norton it will take over your PC.
Nero know that and they have a Cleaner that you can download from their website I have had to use it before reinstalling Nero.

 

Hi, Matt...

I had already pre-recorded my reply to your post, when I read your PM.

Thank you for that, and I hope my post is a satisfactory response to your concerns.

Here's my post:

Gentlemen:

Yes, Matt, I believe my RAM and floppy issues are resolved.

Replacing my 512 MB with 1 GB didn’t fix my slow computer problem, and since I believe I destroyed the new 1 GB stick, I’ll not bother anymore.

With regard to the floppy, there wasn’t a problem to begin with. What I experienced was associated with the particular program with which I tried using it.

When we found that Nero seemed to be implicated in my problem, I thought it would be unnecessary to mess with the cables.

Since you referred to it again in your last post, I did try re-seating the connectors, but wasn’t able to do so, because I have arthritis in both wrists and thumbs, and couldn’t get a good grip on the ribbon connectors. I did OK with the power supply cables.

So, for now, I’ll have to hope my problem lies elsewhere….if worst comes to worst, I can probably live with it.

I think that one of the uninstall sites you gave me contained the same file as the one on Nero’s site.

When I checked Microsoft about resetting the filters, there were two symptoms suggesting that action; namely, either no drive access from My Computer, or the appearance of one of two error messages.

Since neither applied, I didn’t do anything. If you still think it advisable, I’ll do it.

At Hawk’s suggestion, I went onto the Nero site for their Uninstall tool, but I’m not sure it’ll work for me, because my version (5.x) isn’t listed; only v.7 & v.8. I downloaded it anyhow, and maybe it’ll do the job, after I reinstall Nero.

You mentioned InCD. I don’t know if it was installed with Nero. I notice on the CD that it’s listed separately, so I looked for it in the Registy, and found 4 entries, which I deleted. It didn’t make any difference.

By the way, there were over 100 entries for Ahead and Nero in the Registry.

When I reinstall Nero (without InCD, unless it’s needed) I’ll go through your routine—I’ll use the uninstaller, if necessary—and see what happens.

Lastly, the only things I can recall changing in Setup were the boot sequence; going Manual for the CPU speed; and assigning Plug and Play to the OS instead of the BIOS.

I’ll wait "˜til I hear from you before I reinstall Nero.

Thanks, again, to both of you.

P.S. I’m confused by your use of "˜C/w.’ Is it shorthand for my username, or does it have a meaning all it’s own? (Your PM answered this nicely)

 

Yes, C/w = catswhisker

You have covered what we mentioned well, very well in fact. Some notes I would make is that when using Windows XP, you should set the BIOS as "non-Plug and Pay OS ". The Plug and Play setting can be used for DOS based systems like Win 98 or ME.
You could use the filter reset instructions, they shouldn't hurt.

Version 5 of Nero (and InCD) was problematic, so you might concentrate on that as being a likely probable source of the problem. When I wrestled with it, I used most of those suggestions I have made already, one time though, my only recourse was to reformat. In those days though, I did not have any "filter reset" instructions or specialised Nero uninstallers.

In this situation, I back up the data, then I can make whatever changes I like with the knowledge that I can reformat if necessary. I imagine that my hard disk drive is about to fail and make myself prepared.

You say you could "live with it ", I don't like working with a system that is "limping ".

With Nero version 5, it may be a problem with the ASPI layer (drivers). There are resets for those, you can do a websearch for "ASPI layer ". Nowadays, I might prefer doing a reformat and getting a more recent version of Nero (supplied with some new CD/DVD drives) or using another (more updated) burning program, to fighting with the drivers.

Sorry to hear about your arthritis. You may want to befriend a nibble-fingered person Opening the case and doing some maintenance is required occasionally.

That's good feedback to our suggestions. I couldn't give you explicit directions, my past experiences have been varied.

Matt

 

At your suggestion, I returned the BIOS to default settings. The only items I changed this time,were the Boot sequence; designating the Primary VGA BIOS from PCI to AGP, and disabling the Onboard VGA.

Then I downloaded and ran the filter reset utility, and the ASPI layer program.

Before I ran the ASPI program, I used the ASPICHK executable, which showed there were no ASPI files on my machine. After I ran the program, it showed two of four files were installed. I presume the other two were for other OSs..

The moment of truth came when I tried using the eject button on my CD-R/RW drive.

Mission accomplished!

You’re a bloody genius!!

I reinstalled Nero, together with an update I found on their site. The button still works.

I didn’t install InCD, but the Registry shows the same 4 InCD entries as before, so I guess they belong there. However, all are listed as UDF drivers, and I recall you’re not too happy with UDF.

By the way, my first attempt at uninstalling Nero must have removed more than I had thought. There are over 300 references in the Registry now.

Hawk was right….the program really does take over the machine.

As far as the ROM drive is concerned, the drive light still remains on with a blank CD.

I placed a blank CD in my DVD player, just to see what would happen.

The message was that the disk couldn’t be played, but, at least, it recognized the presence of the disk.

I’m not convinced that my ROM drive is capable of recognizing a blank disk, though. Since I have no occasion to put a blank CD in the ROM drive, I’m going to treat it as being normal.

That’s all for now, except to say thank you one more time.

C/w

 

It's called "many hours of hard slog" C/w ...or...some of the bloodiest battles in man vs computer history I think you've had a taste.

Thanks for letting us know, some people with the older version of Nero may benefit (and save a reformat).

Let us know if you have further problems , I can't guarantee any (quick) solutions though

Well done!

Matt

 

Matt…

I’m very pleased with the positive outcome to what ailed my machine.

All I can say is thanks to you and Hawk22….I couldn’t have done it without you.

It’s been my pleasure to work with you folks, and I have no doubt I’ll be back!

But for now….Cheers!

C/w