To those who bashed ZoneAlarm

Well I guess everyone who ragged on ZoneAlarm was right. It stinks. One minute I was OK and the next I couldn't connect to any websites. Then I turned off ZoneAlarm and was able to connect again. I'm now using Tiny Personal Firewall, but I want a router with a firmware firewall so I won't have any software draining my resources and destabilizing my software.

 

Since networking my pc's behind a Linksy's router, and using DSL, there are times I have same problems. It seems the free version of ZA isn't too friendly with router firewalls. The kicker was when I tried to disable ZA from loading. I couldn't surf anywhere. It really acted up when I uninstalled it (ZA). Luckily I still had the file to reinstall, just to get back to normal.

 

You know what, that's something cause I had disabled mine from coming on at startup too cause it was taking so long to load. Anyway I got rid of it. What I really want is one of them routers with a firmware firewall on it.

 

http://www.linksys.com/Products/product.asp?grid=23&prid=20

 

For many users, version 3 does stink. ZAP was a reasonable product but has been over-developed into the buggy beast that it now is. ZoneLabs should have heeded the warning if it ain't broke, don't fix it as opposed to deciding on the if it ain't broke, fix it till it is philosophy.

Am is right in thinking that this is no longer freeware? If so, you might wish to take a look at Kerio. It's free and is now what TPF once was (the original developer of TPF formed a new company (Kerio) and issued an updated version of TPF as KPF).

 

TPF is free for home users; there's a fee for businesses.

 

I've looked and you're absolutely correct. Development of the free version has, however, been halted. Kerio of continued to develop a product (which was identical to TPF) and the product is still free for home use.

 

but I want a router with a firmware firewall .

GO FOR IT

I have a three machine LAN. All had separate IPs on a Cable Modem. All were connected to a HUB.

Replaced the Hub with a Linksys BEFSR41 Ver2 Router/4 port switch. Had to replace one NIC but other than that all fell into place on the first shot. I just had to tell DHCP that I had three machines.

The NIC had to be replaced as I could never find the correct drivers for it to work at 100.

Dumped two IPs and all is working very well and MUCH faster. As my NICs are now running at 100 instead of 10.

But, It is recommened to also run a software firewall to block the outgoing stuff.

I am using Norton Internet Security and have had no problems whatsoever.

And Norton has not shown me an incoming attempt since I installed the Router.

BillyBob

 

BillyBob wrote:

How can I find out which speed my card is running at?

 

I can not honestly answer that.

I just found it out when I setup up the Router and the one card did not show up as being at 100. The other two did.

After I replaced the card all three showed as working at 100.

And by the increase in speed I just figured that all had been running at ten.

But I believe the HUB was only capable of 10.

Sorry that I can not be of much help on this one.

But EVERYTHING is behaving and running much faster now.

I LOVE it

BillyBob

 

You said the cards showed they were working at 100. How, was there an LED or was it on the computer they showed you?

 

You can usually tell by the lights on the hub or router what speed the network card is connected to the hub or router at.

Keep in mind that it doesn't make any difference in the connection to the Internet, the max connection speed over cable is 10 meg, DSL is variable but I'm sure the max speed on DSL is also 10 meg.

The only place the NIC speed would make a difference is for your local network, computer to computer in your house.

 

You said the cards showed they were working at 100. How, was there an LED or was it on the computer they showed you

I'm sorry. the lights I referred to are on the Router.

One for link ( green means OK )
One for Ful/Col. Green solid for Full Duplex. Green blinking means collisions
One for 10/100 no light 10. Orange light 100.

The one card I had did not have the 2nd two lights at all.

I am trying to do too much at once.

I am playing a very dangerous game of putting 98FE on top of SE.

SO FAR all looks well.

BillyBob

 

Billybob wrote:

From clean installing either one on my daughter's computer & mine, as far as I can tell, the biggest difference between FE & SE is the version of Internet Explorer that comes with each one. Her's has SE, mine FE. Of course I am not an expert on OS's either.
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About Bashing Zone Alarm:

I've had several versions of ZA. The only one I ever had a serious problem with was ZA 3. It just wasn't worth keeping. Too problematic.

It was very slow to load. It used too much % of CPU resources, prevented surfing to a lot of web sites that I hadn't instructed it to prevent, & wrecked havoc with my e-mail programs (Oulook Express & Mailwasher).

The pop-up stopper part wasn't what it was cracked up to be either.

Consequently, I reverted to the previous version that was working acceptably.
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Deloris

 

Zone Alarm

Running a two machine network with Linksys router/firewall and Z.A. 3
Disabled pop-up blocking features. Using Guard I.E. 2.3 for privacy, add filters and pop-up blocking.
Have not experienced any glitches. The only problem is that after not going on-line for more than one day I need to repairm my local area connection in order to be able to go on-line ( only on one machine running XP, not a problem with W98 SE)

 

Zone Alarm

I am running za 3 with a linky router, and I have found that turning the privacy off on both tabs works the best.... I have no trouble with it and there are 5 pc's all connected to my router...

And like BillyBob says the speed is great, and you do get better internet performance.

flack

 

I have been using zone alarm for about 2 years and as long as I check the programs I wish to let in and out past the firewall, it only stops the ones I have not given permission to acess or exit my computer.