Bad Power Supply?

Bad Power Supply???!?!?!?!?!?

Here is my problem:

I started getting a "System Failed CPU Test" when turning on my desktop computer.

I got it a few times intermittantly powered down, rebooted and all was fine. Finally a few days later I started getting the above error. My ASUS P4PE motherboard has verbal errors, it actually says that. I am not even getting a beep, the fans start to run byt thats it, The power LED onthe motherboard lights up also.

Of course I call ASUS and they tell me the processor is not good. It is under warranty from Intel and replaced for free. I put it in and same thing. "System Failed CPU Test "

So back on the phone to tech support and they now tell me the motherboard is no good. Takes them over 2 weeks and I get and install the new motherboard and processor. Same problem. "System Failed CPU Test "

I out a meter on the power supply and I am getting 4.24 volts from one lead and 5.23 volts from another on the 20 pin atx connector with the power supply on but the sustem power button off. When I turn on the system power button I get power to the other wires, 12 volts and so on.

BUT how do I know I am getting enough AMPS. It says in my book for the ASUS motherboard that without enough AMPS I will have problems starting up.

HOW DO I KNOW IF THE POWER SUPPLY IS BAD?

THANKS!

 

Hello Master

I=E/R basic Ohm's law equation

I is current in AMPS
E is electromotive force in VOLTS
R is resistance in OHMS

You need to test the various bus voltages with the unit under full load.

Almost any functioning power supply will read normal voltages +/- within 5% UNLOADED.
It's when you put the full load on that the true picture unfolds.
Bottom line, if your power supply varies more than 5% on ANY voltage bus, chances are the supply is undersized in that machine and needs to be replaced with a higher WATTAGE unit.

What is the power (watts) rating of the power supply you now have ??

Nowadays, I recommend a bare minimum wattage of 330 watts, higher if you have a number of fans and heat pruducing items like some of the high power video cards being used in serious gaming.

There is a small freeware utility I use here in my machine called MBProbe, you can get it here:

http://mbprobe.livewiredev.com/download.html

It will read out all your voltage busses and temperature of CPU, motherboard and so on.
I think Asus has one available.
Check with them about this possibility.

Daddad

 

Thanks for the info. ASUS does include the Probe software adn I have used it since day 1, I never got an alram off of it. I even lowered some of the temps and so on so I would be alerted earlier so I could stop potential problems.

I forgot to mention I have a 400 Watt power supply that was bought new (CompUsa) in Feb 2003, so its less than a year old.
The book for the motherboard says that the board needs 230 watts and a fully configured system needs 300 watts, so I figured i was safe with 400.
I am not a serious gamer and there is NO over clocking or anything unusual going on.

 

Ok, maybe both of us are barking up the wrong tree.
400 watts certainly seems adaquate for what you describe, PROVIDED, it is functioning within specs.
What CPU are you using ??
Have you tried booting up in safe mode ??
Can you swap out the PSU with another ??
Have you made any major or minor hardware changes recently ??
Have you installed any new software recently ??

Daddad

 

>What CPU are you using ??

I have a brand new Intel P4 1.7 Ghz that Intel just sent me as a warranty replacement with new heatsink and fan. Retail box.

>Have you tried booting up in safe mode ??

I do not even getting close to being able to do that. I hit the power switch and I get absolutely nothing, no beeps, not clicking hard drives, no floppy drive making noise. It takes a few seconds and go straight to "System Failed CPU Test ". No hard drive or floppy lights come on at all. Only the power led on the motherboard light ups and the cpu fan, power supply fan and an add on fan that I have comes on. Thats is, nothing else.

>Can you swap out the PSU with another ??

Unfortunately I dont have one. I may have to go buy one and see if that works. Can you recomend a good one? One that supports power supply fan speen/heat monitoring?

>Have you made any major or minor hardware changes recently ??

Nothing at all, everything has been the same for quite some time.

>Have you installed any new software recently ??

Nope.

Thanks for your help.
John

 

Be glad to recommend some for you.
Don't know where you live but if you're in the US, I like NewEgg for most hardware items:

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...=58&manufactory=1516&DEPA=1&sortby=14&order=1

I like all the "True" series, I use the True330 here and it's a super PSU
Antec True PSU's rate highly in tests.

Daddad

 

thanks again.

 

You are quite welcome.

Please post back any progress you achieve.

Others are monitoring this thread of yours and it may benefit them.

Daddad

 

so .. heres the latest. I brought the compusa power supply back and got the Antec SL400 400 watt power supply. (compusa even gave me a defective refund and the antec had a $20 mail in rebate, so I made out great)

I install the new power supply make sure everything is in correctly and power up. "SYSTEM FAILED CPU TEST "

****, i am ******. New processor, new motherboard, new power supply. what the f%$k is going on?

I cant figure it out. Should I take the motherboard out of the case and start over again?

 

Here is an interesting link I found. Read through this about the soder on the board. one post has a picture also and you can see where it is ground ing out.

http://techsupportforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6104&perpage=20&pagenumber=3

 

Well Master, you may indeed have solved your own puzzle.
That solder blob shocks me because I have encountered Asus boards in the past, even have used a couple my self.
All have performed in a stellar manner.
Could be that Asus Quality Control (QC) has taken a tumble.

At this point in time, if I were you, I would remove the motherboard from the case.
Then strip it of any and all plug-in items, even memory.
Then carefully inspect both the underside and topside of the MOBO for any obvious solder blob shorts, using a high power magnifying glass with plenty of light .
Then re-seat all items that you have removed.
(That's called "Plug and Pray ")

Also, I would just put into service a bare minimum of components to "Get the Sucka to boot into Windows "
CPU, memory, hard drive, floppy etc.
Forget the sound card and anything else for now.
Then gradually add items until you complete the re-population.

Here's hoping for you

Daddad

Addendum edit
After closer examination of the photo of the "solder blob" from that link you provided.
It appears to my ole eyes, it is NOT an "overflow blob" at all.
It looks more like a CRUSH and expansion of that solder point by some blunt instrument.
In my 44+ years as an electronic engineer, I have seen many of both those kinds of problems.

 

Hi again,
Last night I took the board out, I didnt totally strip it down but I gave a quick look. I didnt find anything like whats in the picture, but I will look better today. That board in the link and pic I put above was not my model of MB. I have read lots of things about my same problem.


Some people are saying that the heat sink and fan are pressing too hard onto the processor and others have said that theirs was not pressing hard enough. Some people have said that it was their video card, and all was fine with a different one.

I have tried without my video card in there at all, I dont have another video board to try it with.

Most of the people were dealing with brand new motherboards. Mine has worked great for about 8 or 10 days short of a year. Thats why this is baffeling me, I didnt make any changes either hardware or software. This problem just came out of no where.

I have even been desperate enough to start translating web pages from german, polish and japanese that have come up on google and altavista with the search "system failed cpu test asus ".

 

Yes, I too read about all the people that are having problems with Asus MOBO's.

If my suggestions of how I would attack this problem doesn't pan out for you, there is always the possibility of you biting the bullet with the purchase of another brand of MOBO.

I have to say, I am extremely pleased with this Albatron board I have.
Before I chose this board, I did an indepth research at two of the most trusted sites for hardware (Anandtech and Tom's Hardware sites)
When I saw "green lights" from both sites on this board, I plunked down my "frogskins" and never looked back

As you can see, I have the 2.4 GHz P-4 overclocked to 3.06 GHz and the memory is set at 2.5-2-2-6 clocks.
I could have gone a little higher in overclocking but it would become less than 100% stable only giving me "bragging rights" which are worthless to me.
Stability is EVERYTHING !!

Please post back so we all can be knowledgeable of your progress (if any)

Daddad

 

Hi hellmaster (hi Daddad).

It sounds to me like your cpu is overheating.

Try removing the cpu, cleaning all the heat sink compound off. If you have a source, use Artic Silver or similar compound. Don't put too much on. I apply the compound to both surfaces and then wipe it off gently with a paper towel. I'm only after filling the voids in both surfaces. Make sure the fan will press pretty hard onto the cpu. Don't crack the edges. Reinstall the cpu and fan and try it.

Also, it sounds like a short to the case. Try to check any voltage in the case with a meter. If you find some then leave the power on and disconnect items one at a time (don't unplug the motherboard while power is on). If the motherboard is grounded on the underside via the spacers you couldn't see it but if you do have case voltage and it changes when you disconnect the motherboard then that would confirm it.

Disconnect from the motherboard anything possible. Just connect the screen card, monitor, cpu/fan, and memory and boot. If it still gives you the error it can't be the low power from the power supply.

Remove the ram and reinstall. Sometimes that will cause that problem. If that is new memory try and find some substitute memory to try. The memory might not be compatible.

Disable any onboard sound.

After the above I would return the motherboad. It is probably bad.

Let us know what happened.

Giles

 

Oh my God .... I was also posting about this on www.MySportTrac.com since that is the board I spend the most time on. Some very good guys there!

One guy was racking his brain and came up with clearing the cmos and checking the reset button
It was the reset button!!! I am typing this on the computer now.

**** I went through alot to figure this one out!

SUPER BIG THANKS TO ALL who posted and especially DADDAD!!

gotta order some Artic Silver now.

 

Thanks Giles for jumping in on this one.
You have made some good points indeed.
I was beginning to run out of ideas on advice for him.
Let's see what he comes back with.

Daddad

 

Well, a SUPER "Way to go" for you, young man

So glad for you that you found it and got it corrected.

Your persistance paid off, more power to you.

Was fun trying to give help to you.

I check this board each and every day for areas I might be able to lend a hand with.

A big thanks to Arie Slob, the Administrator for providing such a great forum we can all take advantage of.

Daddad

 

yep, definately a great forum, lots of info and great people. Thanks to all who contribute.