Faulty Fan? / Overheating?

At this point, I'd just be happy to be able to access the BIOS - as I can't, I don't see how I'm going to be able to make any changes. I'm searching for my motherboard manual, can't seem to find it anywhere.

Well, if it helps, this is the motherboard of my computer (the same package):
http://www.digital-daily.com/motherboard/abit-ic7-g/

Do you think it would help if I flashed an updated version of the BIOS?

 

I've downloaded my Abit IC7-G motherboard manual.

I have done some further research, and it looks as though I may be set to Failsafe Defaults, meaning that my USB keyboard will not work.
Next step: acquire a regular PS/2 keyboard. And then... the world.

 

Hi Snape,
I'm worried by something that you said in a previous post - removed the heatsink the CPU came with it - ! ! !

If this really happened the CPU is not installed correctly, because the MIF (Minimum insertion force) socket for the CPU should have retained the CPU until the locking lever was released.

Or have I missed something?

Roger

 

You haven't missed anything. The adhesive square which I initially used (as opposed to using a thermal paste) was incredibly strong. I was unable to remove the heatsink without the cpu coming out, it was simply unavoidable.
It was a little distressing, kind of like pulling out somebody's heart when all you mean to do is remove an artery.

 

Re: USB keyboard - I was thinking that to myself last night and almost posted the same. Yes, you'll need a PS2 keyboard to get into your BIOS. All other instructions remain the same. By default, USB keyboard is not enabled and clearing your CMOS set you back to the board defaults so you could access the BIOS. Don't worry about any potential damage to your CPU because your are fine in that regard - you wouldn't be able to get as far as you can if you had done damage. You're also fortunate that you have a very good motherboard. Relax - this is just a matter of getting you set back up properly. You will still need to pursue the proper thermal paste & application and get that chipset fan squared away but stay calm - nothing unexpected has happened and you haven't trashed anything.

 

Thanks Rockster. I managed to dig up my old keyboard and now have access to BIOS. I'm now able to boot up all the way into Windows, so at least I now appear to be back to square one (at least I haven't ruined any major hardware!! whew)
I'm still concerned with my temperature readings though. With my old heatsink re-installed, using Unick Silicone Heat Transfer Compound (they didn't have any Arctic Silver in the shops I went to, I will keep looking around though as I do live in the city), and following the directions on the Arctic Silver website to the letter, and I get these readings in BIOS:

System Temperature 32C / 89F
CPU Temperature 56C / 132F
PWM Temperature 41C / 105F
CPU FAN Speed 5273 RPM
NB FAN Speed 0 RPM
SYS FAN Speed 1721 RPM

What should I do to get the temperatures down??
Still trying to figure out how to get my USB keyboard to work, though I guess this is only a secondary concern at the moment.

EDIT:
Motherboard Monitor 5 gives me temperature readings of around 48 to 50C whilst idling in Win XP - looks like I'm back to normal at least. Which readings are more accurate, BIOS or Motherboard Monitor 5?

 

Ordinarily, BIOS should be the most accurate temperature readings. Now that you know the drill, you can wait until you get some artic silver and then get back into this problem but I'd also still advise to do something with your NorthBridge chip - either a bigger heatsink requiring no fan or a new fan. As to the USB keyboard support - that will be available in your BIOS although I can't tell you what page or tab you'll find it on - not to worry, its there.

I'll assume you are firing on all 3 Gigs again and have accumulated enough confidence to tackle this cooling issue when you get the right parts and paste together. Good Luck.



edit: That Northbridge can cause all kinds of instability issues if it overheats - I just noticed you are showing no speed on the NB fan and although they are often on a 2 pin header and would not yield any rpm speed reading, don't let a bad fan go unchecked here. Fix it.

 

Thanks for all your help Rockster, I will definitely look into acquiring some Arctic Silver and will have another shot at attaching that new heatsink and fan (which is definitely supposed to be compatible with my cpu). Now that I've been through the procedure, it should be easy enough to work through should the same problems reoccur.
I'll keep you posted!

 

Glad to see Rockster's help, I've been tied up on the weekend.

I would also discourage removing the heatsink while the system is running ...those AMDs did not take it kindly, did they?

I think you pretty much just need reassurance that you are doing the right thing. Read through the ArcticSilver5 instructions so that you at least understand them...all about the microscopic valleys, compounds that don't mix, cleaning fluids, etc, etc. After another installation or two it will be second nature.

A-S5 supplier in Ultimo (check first):
http://www.msy.com.au/

Matt

 

Well Snape, there are cooling solutions available that can cool down your CPU to sub zero temp. provided you have the cash .

For most of us, the CPU temp. of around 50C is ok with air cooling. (My Athlon 2600 XP+ show a temp. of 38C right after booting & climbs upto 45C when in use).

 

But I really need lower temperatures, my computer has gotten so warm on a few occasions that the cpu alarm had gone off and I had to shut off my computer. Also it idles at around 50C, and I'm just not happy with that

I'm going to go home and play around with that new fan that I bought last week, and see if I can't get it to work. Could there be something wrong with the new fan? Maybe I should take it back.

S

EDIT: Update
Have re-installed the brand new heatsink, and for some reason it works fine now! Sadly, after idling in BIOS for five minutes, the cpu temperature reaches at least 55C, which is higher than the stock heatsink. What to do? How could this heatsink/fan possibly be worse than the stock heatsink??
Perhaps I should try to return it and go for a BigTyphoon fan, which I've heard are quite good.

 

If you closing the case, try running with the panel off and monitor if there are differences in the temps. If you do not have a good flow of air through the case the chips will be being cooled with the heated air that is already in the case, you may need to look at improving the case cooling/air flow. The air-flow through the case should be in at front (bottom) and out at the back (top). There should be a flow of air that goes across the motherboard, cards, graphics and other chips, removes the heated air and exhausts it. If you have extra case fans, check that they are flowing in the right direction (I use a small sliver of paper if I cannot see arrows on the fan).

You may need more case fans if the case does not have many. I grabbed a PCI slot fan the other day that sits next to graphics card and exhausts the air out the back of the machine.

My friend upgraded his graphics card, it then started having temp problems from the extra heat. I reduced the CPU temp by reapplying the thermal compound (came down 10*C when I got my technique perfect...and I mean perfect ) and I have suggested the PCI fan, although it is now stable.

Matt

 

Right On Matt. Snape - you can go back and search this board for other comments/threads about cooling. Its all about moving air and hopefully cool air. Your CPU Heatsink & Fan is one area of focus and we all have to give Matt the highest marks for being such a strong advocate of Artic Silver and proper application technique - this alone will make a big difference. At the same time, as has been referenced - bringing cool air into the case and exhausting hot air out is critical. You'll hear all kinds of different theories and opinions, quite often based on what an individual user has found successful for their own situation. And, on the technical side you can have positive pressure, negative pressure or seek a balence. There are most certainly different strokes for different folks. If you have a pile of spaghetti inside your case coupled with flat ribbon cables - clean it up. That link I gave you for the Northbridge coolers can also be followed for a variety of other cooling products, including the ported exhaust fan Matt referenced in a slot next to a video card. They also have GPU fans & coolers. I wouldn't be happy with 50 C either, although that's within an acceptable tolerance level. My OC'ed 2600+ mobiles running at 2.4GHZ (aprx 3600+ equivalent), idle in the high 30's/low 40's and max out in the mid to high 40's depending on how recently I've cleaned fans and heatsinks. You probably aren't going to get that with your P4, but you can knock those temperatures down some. Take your time and use some common sense - its all about moving air more efficiently.

 

If, after taking off the side panel, you're still getting that temp, I'd assume that you have some sort of problem with your cpu fan/heatsink...regardless of intake/exhaust fans. Unless, it's REALLY hot in Australia!

I'm assuming that your cpu speed settings and voltage in the BIOS are at defaults, right? Keep in mind that heatsinks can be installed 180 degrees backwards on the socket. They are only meant to go on one way.

Gary

 

Normally the temp. while idling in BIOS would be higher than in Windows (unless you are playing games or doing some CPU intensive work) because Windows actually throttle/shuts down the CPU (Idle System Process) while its not in use. Check your temp. in Windows.

 

>Mattman
CPU idles at around 48 - 50C with the side panel off. Also, I have managed to get my new heatsink & fan to work, but the temperature still is exactly the same. I have checked airflow through the case and everything seems in good order, though the fan in the top (not the rear, but on top) blows air in instead of out - I intend to reverse this.
Also, bought some Arctic Silver 5 today, so I'm hoping this lowers my temperatures at least a couple degrees.

(also looking into purchasing one of those PCI slot, GPU coolers.)

>Rockster
Purchased a Zalman passive heatsink for my Northbridge chipset today, so will have some fun installing that tonight.
Have been reading up on airflow through the chassis, and have found some great articles on fan placement etc (in particular, for anyone interested, read here: http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/63277-guide-air-cooling-v0-1-inside.html
Also will try your suggestion with the spaghetti, I just hope the parmesan cheese doesn't gum up the works - melted cheese and squished spaghetti sure does make a mess of your motherboard

>Chiles
CPU idles at around 55C in BIOS, and 48C - 50C in Windows. So that seems right with what you say.

Thanks all for your help, I'll post with any successes that I may have. I'm confident that reversing one of my fans, and using Arctic Silver on the CPU will help out quite a bit.

 

I was reading my PCUser magazine at lunch today (PCUser is our Australian PC hardware mag), they have a review of heatsinks. Although there are only about eight in the review, top of the listings were AMD and Intel stock heatsinks. I have read before that the stock heatsinks are some of the best you can use, so if you find that the original heatsink gives you the best temps, don't be surprised .

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Gary, hot...on New Years day it was the second hottest day on record by 0.1*C. Over 45*C (113*F).

' "Hot enough to boil a monkey's bum, Your Majesty ", I said and she smiled sweetly to herself.' ...Monty Python, I think.

Like you guys when it snows...stay indoors.

Matt