New PC Recommendations?

Hi Folks,

I need to buy a new PC and wanted some advice. I need to retire my old Sony 2001 Pentium desktop. Just wondered what brands/models/builds you might recommend under $1000? The main intention would be able to edit video. I could get by with my current monitor. Thanks for the input.

Prefer the following although probably not possible under $1000:
Intel Haswell I-7 Processor
2 Gig graphic card
16 gig Ram (Prefer 32)
USB 3.0
HDMI port(s)
1 TB Hard Drive (prefer 2 gig or an SSD with it)
Wireless Adapter 11AC standard upgradeable

 

Assembled and ready to go? I doubt you could even purchase decent, stable parts for a build like that for $1000 (US).

 

Looks like a nice machine! Thank you! I take it that if it can handle gaming then video isn't a problem so I should head for a gaming PC? Appreciate the recommendations!

 

Great! Thanks so much for your help!

 

I have a new Core i3, and I am already outclassed.

 

Without knowing the type of video editing tasks you will be performing, I would be hesitant to say an i5 would be "perfect" for your needs. Video editing can be MUCH MORE demanding than even the most demanding games. This is why "workstation" graphics cards for the "serious" graphics or video editor/developer/designer can be real budget busters - costing many times more than high-end gaming cards. While you may not need an i7, and while the i5 is a great processor, if the budget allows, I would definitely take an i7 over an i5 any day - even if not into "serious" graphics editing.

Gaming graphics cards can do graphics editing and are "good enough" for casual editing. And workstation graphics cards can game, but if serious about one or the other, get the right tool for the job. A pickup truck can haul people and a car can haul a load of gravel, but that does not make either the right one for the assigned tasks.

8Gb is the "minimum" amount of RAM I would recommend. While technically Windows 64-bit will run in 4Gb, it can really stretch out in 8Gb and fly in 16Gb. I have always been a strong proponent for having lots of RAM as this minimizes the need for the OS and CPU to use the Page File on the slow hard drive as near as often for needed files. While 8Gb is often seen as the "sweet spot" (where more provides minimal gains), the "noticeable" performance boost bumping RAM from 8 to 16Gb is surprising. 32Gb would be nice, but doubling the RAM will not come near doubling the returns in performance for the investment. In fact, you may not notice any performance gains at those levels.

Using an SSD for the boot drive will also dramatically improve performance in most areas. I say "most" because it is important to understand that once the program is loaded into RAM, the drive steps back out of the way a bit. I would go for an SSD and 16Gb of RAM over a HD and 32Gb, no hesitation, doubts or regrets. While boot times are not a true indication of how the system will perform once fully booted, ~10 second boot times with an SSD is simply awesome to watch.

One of the most critical purchasing decisions you need to make is your choice of power supply (which you don't have listed ). Unfortunately, while one of the most critical, it should be one of the last - to be done AFTER you have selected your other components and determined their requirements so you can get the right size. No harm is done by selecting too big a supply, but you must buy one that is big enough and have enough headroom for stress free (and quieter) operation, and to allow for any future hardware upgrades or additions.

The key thing to remember (besides size) is to ensure your supply is from a reputable maker and that it is 80 PLUS certified. 80 PLUS certification ensures the supply is at least 80% efficient across the full range of "expected" loads - something power supplies are NOT inherently good at. Therefore, it takes a good design and the use of quality components to achieve 80 PLUS certification. I prefer Corsair and Antec PSUs.

As noted in my sig, heat is the bane of all electronics so proper cooling is essential. Your CPU will come with a quality cooler so don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Using an aftermarket cooler on a CPU (Intel or AMD) that comes boxed with a supplied cooler, voids the warranty!

It is the responsibility of the case to supply a good flow of cool air through the case. I prefer cases that support large (120mm or larger) fans and provide support for at least 1 fan in back (not counting the PSU fan) to pull heated air out and 1 fan in front to push cool air in (across the drives). I also prefer cases with removable, washable air filters so I don't have to break my systems (or back) down and lug them outside to blast out the dust near as often. I like Antec cases.

Finally, you don't have an OS listed. Because you want more than 8Gb of RAM, you MUST use a 64-bit OS. I recommend Windows 8.1 as it is the most secure and fastest. If you don't like W8's new user interface/start screen, it is easy to make it look, feel, and behave like W7 by using Start8 (which is what I use) or Classic Shell.

*******

Not compared to competing processors in that class. The i3 is a decent processor and will work fine for "Office" tasks, email, surfing the net, or as a decent PVR. But if seeking high performance, you need more horsepower. But again, giving the i3 gobs of RAM will help, as will an upgraded graphics card - though with a good supporting motherboard, the i3's (and i5's and i7's too) integrated graphics is quite acceptable - even for gaming.

 

And yet you said the i5 would be "perfect" based on that same lack of information! Too big will not hinder, too small might.

As I noted 8Gb is considered the "sweet spot ", where less and performance takes a significant hit, but more provides only a minimum of gains for the money. Having built several 16Gb systems recently, I have noticed, and as I noted above, been surprised at the performance gains. And I don't do much multitasking. That said, Windows itself multitasks all the time.

Huh? What does "regular maintenance" have to do with freeing up RAM? And what would that "maintenance" be? Sorry, but that does not make any sense to me. And for the Page File and "regular maintenance ", unless you have changed the defaults and disabled automatic defragging in Windows 7 or Windows 8, or you are running critically low on disk space, there's no maintenance, regular or otherwise, needed that affects performance - other than periodic cleaning of heat trapping dust, and keeping Windows and your security apps updated. So you lost me there.

Fortunately SSD prices are coming down and if you keep your eyes open (subscribe to Newegg and Tiger Direct promotion emails), you can catch some good deals. Also, with the latest generation of SSDs, especially with a modern OS, there's no need to worry about limited write issue.

I've seen some of those come across my bench - not a pretty, or good smelling, sight. But it is not just with new builds. So often folks buy a new graphics card - often the most power hungry devices in our system - and fail to ensure their current supply can support the increased demands.

I have had good luck with Seasonic too. And long shunned for poor quality, even Rosewill 80-Plus certified PSUs are now good and getting great reviews as seen at TweakTown and Overclockers. I guess they got tired of being bashed for so many years and wised up.

FTR, I am not a fan of modular power supplies for several reasons. True, they make for a tidier case interior and with fewer cables, pose less a risk of impacting desired front to back air flow. But most cases support multiple 5.25 inch drive bays and most computers only have 1 optical drive leaving at least one vacant 5.25" bay to stuff cables in, and out of sight. Even with bottom mounted PSUs, a couple tie-wraps and cable management is not a problem.

What I don't like about modular PSUs is:

• Cost more,
• Provide no performance advantages for the extra costs,
• Consist of many more parts and therefore greater potential for failure/defects,
• Any and every connector, regardless the quality of the connector adds resistance in the circuit and therefore decreases efficiency (the energy lost in the form of heat),
• Exposed/unused connections collect dirt and dust degrading the mechanical connection essential for good electrical connection,
• Connectors wear or be damaged, affecting electrical connectivity,
• Unused cables must be stored somewhere, potentially for years without getting lost or damaged,
• The ATX Form Factor Standard for Power Supplies does not define the design or configuration of the modular connectors used, therefore makers often use their own proprietary design, thus:
  • Modular cables from different PSUs may not be compatible or interchangeable,
  • Storing different sets of cables from multiple modular PSUs can be a burden, especially over time,
  • Replacing lost proprietary cables may be expensive; if possible at all.

Sadly then, to avoid losing the extra cables and to prevent damage or mixing brands, the spare cables are often tossed into the bottom of the case where they collect dust and don’t look tidy anymore. So on my builds I go for a case that offers better cable management and a hard-wired PSU.

Note I am not saying modular PSUs are inferior in quality or performance (at least from the factory). But, because a modular supply is more complex, with many more separate parts than a hard-wired equivalent PSU, they have a greater potential to disappoint. Therefore, if you do not need a SFF (small form-factor) case, a nice wide, mid-tower case will provide plenty of room to route unused cables behind the motherboard, or up in an unused drive bay. It is the case’s responsibility, after all, to provide the necessary front-to-back air flow through the case. Therefore, it is the case’s responsibility to facilitate good cable management to minimize impacting that desired flow.

I am all for good cable management as that ultimately affects (often significantly) cooling. But you can "dress-up" (route and tie-back) your cables to stay out of the air flow and still have a "tidy" looking interior.

 

OK, you've got me nervous here.

Do OEM makers like Dell fit the bill concerning crappy power supplys?

From what I can tell, my Dell PS is a Liteon L300NM-00 300 Watts. I have an Antec Earthwatts installed in my XP setup. Should I swap the two out, or will that void my extended warranty?

 

Well, I wouldn't but my point was if you have several computers you are responsible for that use modular PSUs from various makers, and because they often use proprietary connectors (even within the same brand), it can be a challend to keep track of the spare cables and avoid mixing types. So keeping them with the computer is often the better of evils so they will not get lost. I agree, not ideal, but often necessary. If you only have one computer to keep track of, this is not likely a problem.

As for tape, I would be hesitant to recommend that. The problem with any tape is the glue often remains when you pull the tape off. For sure, you don't want the glue on the actual contacts, and you don't want any remaining glue to get into the way of a connection should you get another HD or something.

That said, I agree that exposed contacts are a concern but I don't really have an answer. That said, I know there are some modular PSUs that come with dust caps for the unused connections. I think Tagan does that - an excellent idea they all should do.

 

Dell PSUs are not known for quality but I don't think I would call them "crappy ". But one of the main problems with Dell, HP, Acer, etc. is they size the PSU for the computer they come with. That is, they may not come with any headroom to upgrade your graphics card.

 

I've heard of similar horror stories about exploding power supplys. So far, I can't see any 80s series ratings on my Dell (Liteon) PS. My Antec *is* an 80s series PS, but it is not listed in the link you gave me (probably because it's rated at only 450 watts).

I have an open thread at Dell about this issue, so it will be interesting to see what their forum members have to say about it.

I am not a gamer, and all I use my machines for is banking, email, and web surfing. The Dell has a large CPU fan, and a case fan, but they are about as quiet as any I have ever heard - if that counts for anything. (I'm thinking about heat from overworked electronics here)

This is a great thread. I appreciate the input from you and Bill.

 

Thanks guys. IT is industries within industries so it is impossible for anyone to know it all. That's the beauty of these forums - you meet people with backgrounds and expertise in all sorts of different areas. Even as an electronics technician supporting hardware for 40+ years, I am constantly learning and discovering things I didn't know.