Resolved Monitor troubles

Having trouble with Desktop monitor. This particular monitor worked fine just two days ago, but then I tried to plug it into a computer that I was working on and it would click like it was starting up and then go right back into standby. Thinking it was a problem in the PC itself I unplugged it and tried it in the original PC it was working on before and had the same reaction. Furthermore, I tried connecting it to my laptop, except this time it actually turned on and showed the Windows startup screen, then, right back into standby. Any ideas or suggestions?


P.S. if it matters, the monitor in question is a 17" Samsung Syncmaster 997DF

 

Yeah, If you tried it on several machines and you are getting the same results then you might have a "paper-weight" on your hands. Don't give up on it just yet... make sure that the computers are not sleep or hibernating and for the laptop you can use certain key combos or software controls in the control panel to direct video to an external monitor. Make sure you try that to confirm. Also another important thing is to check and make sure that none of the signal pins in the VGA plug that connects the monitor to the computer are not bent. I have had several people bend these while trying to plug their monitors up in tight spaces.

 

Yeah, I even tried turning off and restarting several times on each.

Thanks for the pointer Didn't even realize I had a control on my laptop keyboard to switch monitors. I located it and am now using the monitor in question while typing this response, so I am under the assumption that it still works but just can't figure out why it's not when connected to the desktop PC I will play with it a little more when time permits, could have just been a fluke last night, or maybe it's just on it's way "out ", not really sure. Either way I will let everyone know how it's working out. Thank you

 

It sounds like the monitor is having problems syncing up to the computers when the computers change resolutions - which happens during every boot. Does the laptop use the same resolution as the PC?

I would try another monitor on the PC and see how it behaves.

 

I have been battling this thing for a few days now. The monitor works absolutely fine on my laptop, but will do nothing more on the desktop but return to standby mode after initial boot. I got in depth with checking internal connections in the PC itself thinking I may have loosened a wire while removing the modem and replacing it with an ethernet card. Actually found that my HD power cable had a bad connector which I immediately repaired. Went so far as to pull the mobo all the way out and inspect it, nothing suspicious there. Tried another monitor(the one that actually belongs to the PC), with the same result. I'm out of ideas. Any input?

 

But in your opening post, you said,

So does it work absolutely fine, or does it go into standby?

 

Hi, Bill
This was stated in my post before last but may not have been to obvious.
Sorry for the confusion.

 

I am almost certain that they both use the same resolution, however I am unable to confirm that since I cannot see what is going on inside the desktop. If, somehow, there is a problem with resolution, how would you suggest I go about fixing it?

 

So at this point, no monitor works on your PC, correct? Then you need to verify your PC is getting proper power. To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range ". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed ". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

As mentioned, swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting used for centuries, even by pros. Remove the "suspect" part and replace with a "known good" part and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.

If your power is good, then your graphics card (or motherboard, if on-board) is having problems. You may be able to try a another card.

 

That is correct.

-Just to recap-
To try to make this a little less confusing I will designate numbers for the 2 desktops I am dealing with. Desktop 1 was known to work(for several years) with the samsung monitor before I tried to plug the monitor into Desktop 2( which is a unit that I was having problems with freezing up a while back and decided to pull it out of the closet to try and repair it). I plugged the monitor into desktop 2 and it(Samsung monitor) turned on and then went right into standby. I figured I had more problems now that it(desktop 2) had set up for so long and so I just unplugged it. Plugged the monitor back into desktop 1, now it doesn't bring the monitor out of standby either. So, after trying the laptop and discovering that the monitor was apparently good I went into the closet and pulled out the original monitor for Desktop 1. No luck with that on either. So just for kicks I tried that old monitor in desktop 2, same thing. So in short I have two desktops and two monitors neither of which are able to bring the monitors out of standby. Confused yet? I am. I know what you mean about the power supply, but i just think it's too coincidental that desktop 1 and the samsung monitor worked fine before I tried to use it for desktop 2. On the other hand sounds like you know a good deal more than I do about the internals. All I know to do at this point is to take the whole lot to a professional and let them deal with it I really don't use this desktop for anything other than a network printer, and now that school has started I really need one. Guess I could eliminate this problem altogether if I would just get off my wallet and buy a USB printer Thank you for your time Bill. If you read my recap and think of anything that I might be able to try to resolve the issue without an in depth knowledge of electronics feel free to share.

 

From the looks of it this could be a handy tool to have around and not very expensive either. Think I'll pick one up, who knows it may save me a buck or two in the long run. Thanks for the link.

 

These testers are not a sure test, but often good enough.

So 2 PCs and 2 monitors - neither monitor works with either PC. And by not working, we mean there is nothing displayed on either monitor during the entire boot process, right?

BUT, Monitor 1 works fine on the notebook. Does Monitor 2 work on the notebook? If it does, then you seem to have 2 bad PCs.

 

Absolutely nothing displays on either, that is correct.

Yes and yes. I tried both the monitors on the laptop and both work well.

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With my luck being what it is, I can see how that is likely the case.
Now my only problem lies in deciding what to do about it. I will mark this thread as resolved since we have concluded that the monitor is not the problem. Thanks again Bill for your input.

 

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.