Resolved PC new build options

I'm doing a rebuild and I'm undecided on boot drives - whether to have the
Samsung 256GB 850 Pro Series SSD (10 year warranty)Plextor M6e M.2 PCI-E 256GB (5 year warranty) or
Samsung XP941 256GB (3 year warranty)
Obviously the MB will depend on which one I go for.

Also whether I should keep my data on external drives as do now (clumsy I know but it works for me!) or have a data drive and backup drive in the tower too????

Any thoughts most welcome!

 

Hi SarahB,
Well, when I build a system either for myself or someone else, my first guide is, how much do you want to spend, give or take a hundred dollars or so.
Samsung will give you a 10 year warranty, but will be more expensive as well, so your budget will guide you a long way, they are all pretty good these days, but in my opinion Samsung still have a slight edge on them, hence 10 years against 5 or 3 years.
I prefer to have my second drive internal, for data.
I have a Samsung 840 EVO 250Gig C drive, and a 3TB WD black label for data.
My choice was 3TB WD black label 5 year warranty agains 4TB green label 3 year warranty. This was the advice that I was given from WD Factory in Penang Malaysia. 2TB Seagate external for backup.
Windows 8.1 64 Bit.
Decisions Decicions

 

Sarah ...

I upgraded my system from two internal HDs to two internal SSDs in January 2013, when prices were considerably higher, and available sizes smaller, than they are now.

As you'll see if you look at my system specs, both of my SSDs are smaller than those you're considering, with two partitions on each.

The C partition on the 120GB (111.7 GB usable) SSD contains my Win7Pro OS and installed programs, and the D partition contains those programs not requiring installation, as well as my complete Firefox and Thunderbird program and profile folders. Of the 111.7 GB usable, 53GB remain currently available.

The E partition on the 160GB (148.8GB usable) SSD contains my data ... documents, photos, maps, movies, etc, and the F partition contains a complete library of the installation files for the programs installed on my computer plus all third-party drivers, as well as all of the many icons I've either created or downloaded for my own use. Of the 148.8GB usable, 43.66GB remain currently available.

My two external HDs are used for backups, which I create regularly, maintaining several copies of each.

I'm not suggesting that you (or anyone else) organize your computer drives as I have, but I've used this approach for nearly two decades, and it works for me.

All that said, one of the oldest maxims in personal computing states that there's no such thing as too much storage space, so judge your needs accordingly.

HTH.

 

The Samsung 256GB 850 Pro Series SSD (10 year warranty)is a SATA3 SSD.

The Plextor M6e M.2 PCI-E 256GB (5 year warranty) is a PCIe M2 gen 3 SSD (40% faster than the above)

The Samsung XP941 256GB (3 year warranty) is a PCIe M2 gen4 SSD which is twice as fast as the 850 Pro.

Does this make any difference to the decision or is the longer warranty of the 850 PRO a better option than the faster speed (but shorter warranty) of the PCIe M2's?

Any thoughts welcome.

 

Hi SahraB,
I put a link here for you to read up some of the differences in SSD drives.
For instance the Samsung XP 941 is not the type of SSD that you had thought I think.
Samsung XP 941 is a non bootable SSD, therefore you would need another bootable drive either SSD or SATA.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/8430/...gb-256gb-and-ocz-revodrive-350-480gb-reviewed

 

Sarah ...

The Samsung 256GB 850 Pro Series SSD is SATA III, but your Asus P5B-VM motherboard only supports SATA II.

As Hawk22 noted, the Samsung XP 941 SSD is non-bootable on PCs.

 

Thank you to Jim, hawk22 and Peter for your relpies and links.

It is my understanding that the Samsung XP941 256GB SSD with the updated BIOS of the ASRock Z97 Extreme6 DisplayPort, DVI-I, HDMI motherboard is supported as a boot drive. Have I got this wrong?

I still think durability of the Samsung 850PRO might still be better than extra speed of the Samsung XP941?

I am between 3 new motherboards:
Asus Z97-PRO D-Sub/DVI/HDMI/DP
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H
ASRock Z97 Extreme6 DisplayPort, DVI-I, HDMI

Only the latter will support the full speed of the Samsung XP941.

I intend to have 2 WD black drives and all my current external hard drives. And probably some more............!

The only items I'm keeping from my current PC are the graphics card (which is 2 years old - is this OK?) and the monitor.

Everything else will be new.

Exciting tmes!

 

Hi SahraB

Well Speed Deamon Sahra, here is a review of the Asrock mobo +Samsungs XP 941

http://www.kitguru.net/components/m...6-motherboard-review-w-samsung-xp941-m-2-ssd/

 

Thank you hawk22 for the link. This is an interesting review site.

So I've made my mind up! Here is the detail of what my new PC will be.

Intel Core i7 4790K 4GHz Socket 1150
Corsair 32GBDDR3 1600MHz Vengeance Memory
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H
Samsung 256GB 850 Pro Series SSD
[LEFT]WD Black 2TB HDD[/LEFT]
WD Black 4TB HDD
[FONT=ArialMT][SIZE=2][FONT=ArialMT][SIZE=2]Pioneer 16x BDRW Multilayer 128GB retail
[FONT=ArialMT][SIZE=2][FONT=ArialMT][SIZE=2]Seasonic SS-550RM 550W Hybrid Modular Power Supply
with my current monitor and graphics card

Any comments welcome!
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]

 

Hi SahraB, very impressive, good choices I think.

Here is a Review of the Pioneer BluRay

http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/reviews/digital-home/3465126/pioneer-bdr-208dbk-review/

I have the 209 model, much the same I think. Bigest problem is finding good blank media, most of them are only speeds of 4x.

I am sure you will enjoy building and using your new machine.
hawk22

 

I don't see where you have stated what you will be using this system for. Are you a gamer?

My concern is your PSU. While Seasonic is certainly a reputable brand, I personally would like a bit more wiggle room when it comes to power capability - especially with that CPU, that much RAM and that many drives installed. But without knowing the graphics card you will be using, I can only guess. But you can't! Not if you want to be certain you are feeding your expensive, and sensitive new hardware good, clean, stable power.

So I recommend you use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your minimum and recommended power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plan ahead and plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the calculator page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 10% and both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, as well as future hardware demands.

 

Thank you hawk22 for the link to the bluray drive review. Interesting.

Thank you Bill for the link to the power calculator. This too, is useful and interesting. I am not a gamer. My PC will not be overclocked. My main interest and need for power and speed is photo manipulation. I run Photoshop and other such software. My graphics card will be AMD Firepro V4900 currently in my old PC. I have entered my new PC spec in the power calculator with your suggested values and it comes up with 469W. The power supply I have eventually bought is the Corsair RM Series RM 550 '80+ Gold' 550W.

All my components should have arrived by Monday then the fun (and probably bad language!) begins.

 

I recommend you visit your motherboard and case (and other major components) websites and download your user manuals now. Then read up on installation (paying attention to ESD control) so you are familiar with the parts and connectors BEFORE everything arrives.

Things to note - how to install your RAM to ensure dual-channel is enabled. Note how to connect your case's front panel wires - which WILL be labeled differently than the motherboard's corresponding connectors!

Note which SATA connectors are SATA III and which are SATA II so you can ensure your boot drive is on the best port.

And note a common mistake by newbies and distracted experienced users alike is inserting more case standoffs than the motherboard has mounting holes - resulting in shorting out the motherboard upon first boot. Not good! It is important to note cases are designed to support 1000s of different motherboards so it is common for cases to have more motherboard mounting holes than the motherboard.

 

Thank you Bill for this advice. I plan to have someone more knowledgeable than me at my elbow for the build.

I have had a last minute change of plan and changed the motherboard for the ASRock Z97 Extreme 6 as it has a HDD saving feature which allows 2 HDDs not in use to be switched off.
http://www.ebuyer.com/229062-startech-5-25in-trayless-hot-swap-mobile-rack-black-hsb100satbk
With 2 of these front panels holding the 2 data drives which I will be able to switch off, it will be like having external hard drive functionality but within the PC. This is something that suits me for data security when it is not in use. I may be going for overkill, but it should serve me well and last me a good time (I hope)!

 

So this will be my rejigged new build:

Intel Core i7 4790K 4GHz Socket 1150
Corsair 32GBDDR3 1600MHz Vengeance Memory
ASRock Z97 Extreme 6
Samsung 256GB 850 Pro Series SSD
WDBlack 2TB HDD
The following 2 HDDs in 5.25" front hot swap panels

WD Black 2TB HDD​

WD Black 4TB HDD
Pioneer 16x BDRW Multilayer 128GB retail
[FONT=ArialMT][SIZE=2][FONT=ArialMT][SIZE=2]Seasonic SS-550RM 550W Hybrid Modular Power Supply
with my current monitor and graphics card[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]

Expensive but hopefully will serve me well for a few years or more to come................

 

I think since you are not a gamer, or do CAE/CAD work, that this system is WAY overkill for your stated needs! Not that it is bad to own a Maserati if you don't love racing because it will still be fun to drive. But with that monster i7 and a whopping 32Gb of RAM, your system will be running at or near "idle" speeds the vast majority of the time.

A faster CPU and greater amount of RAM are NOT an indication of quality or reliability, and will not carry you further into the future - unless you plan on doing CAD/CAE or hardcore serious gaming sometime soon down the road.

Just about any i7 will run circles around the best i5s and certainly around any i3. And 8Gb is more than enough RAM for the vast majority of users, 16Gb (which is what I have with my i7) would be gravy. 32Gb? Well, that gives you bragging rights, no doubt. But better performance? You will never "see" it - except maybe on paper.

This is especially true when using that SSD (the same one I have) as your boot drive.

It seems to me if you went with a lessor i7 and 16Gb of RAM you could afford to upgrade your graphics card now too.

I don't see an operating system listed. A common mistake is some users assume they can use their old Windows license on a new computer or when upgrading their motherboards. Understand only a "boxed" full Retail license can be transferred to a new computer (or upgraded motherboard), and full retail licenses are very rare. It is illegal to use an OEM license that came with or was purchased for one computer on another computer. A disk "branded" with a computer maker’s brand name, or is labeled with "OEM/System Builderâ€, "Upgradeâ€, "Academic Editionâ€, or "For Distribution with a new PC only ", is not transferable to a new PC (or upgraded motherboard) under any circumstances. These OEM licenses are inextricably tied to the "original equipment ". So if that is the case, I recommend 64-bit Windows 8 or one of the many free Linux alternatives. Just ensure it is 64-bit since you will be installing more than 4Gb of RAM.

Note I am just the messenger stating the facts. This is all in the EULAs we agreed to abide by when we first used our OEM software with our original computers - and that makes it a legally binding agreement!

I also don't see a case listed - except by me in post #14. Surprisingly to many, the choice of cases is almost as critical as the choice of power supplies, which is one of the most critical purchasing decisions you must make.

The case and PSU form the foundation for your computer, and computer upgrades for many years to come. And it is CRITICAL to understand it is the case's responsibility to ensure an adequate supply of cool air "flows through" the case.

If you are planning on using a "factory branded" case - that is, one that came with an old Dell, HP/Compaq, Gateway, etc. computer, that could be a very big mistake! These computer makers (1) tend to use proprietary cases that may or may not conform to the ATX Form Factor standards your new parts adhere to. And (2), these cases tend to use small (80mm) case fans with limited abilities to add more fan or replace the existing fans with larger (120mm or larger) fans that move more air more quietly.

I like the better Antec cases. They are sturdy, "true" (exactly 90.0° bends), quiet, come with quality, precision ball or fluid bearing fans, offer plenty of optional large fan (up to 250mm!) fan support.

And many Antecs come with removable, washable air filters - a MUST for all my cases. The Antec Three Hundred Two is an excellent, inexpensive case.

***

For the record, I am not a fan of modular PSUs. They allow for a tidier interior but modular supplies:

• Cost more,
• Provide no performance advantages for the extra costs,
• Consist of many more parts and therefore greater potential for failure/defects,
• Any and every connector, regardless the quality of the connector adds resistance in the circuit and therefore decreases efficiency (the energy lost in the form of heat),
• Exposed/unused connections collect dirt and dust degrading the mechanical connection essential for good electrical connection,
• Connectors wear or can be damaged, affecting electrical connectivity,
• Unused cables must be stored somewhere, potentially for years without getting lost or damaged,
• The ATX Form Factor Standard for Power Supplies does not define the design or configuration of the modular connectors used, therefore makers often use their own proprietary design, thus:
  • Modular cables from different PSUs may not be compatible or interchangeable,
  • Storing different sets of cables from multiple modular PSUs can be a burden,
  • Replacing lost proprietary cables may be expensive; if possible at all.

Sadly then, to avoid losing the extra cables and to prevent damage or mixing brands, the spare cables are often tossed into the bottom of the case where they collect dust and don’t look tidy anymore. So a case that offers better cable management and a wired PSU may be something to consider.

Note I am not saying modular PSUs are inferior in quality or performance. But, because a modular supply is MUCH more complex, with many more parts than a hard-wired equivalent PSU, they have a much greater potential to disappoint. Therefore, if you do not need a SFF (small form-factor) case, a nice wide, mid-tower case like the Antec above will provide plenty of room to route unused cables behind the motherboard, or up in an unused drive bay. It is the case’s responsibility, after all, to provide the necessary front-to-back air flow through the case. Therefore, it is the case’s responsibility to facilitate good cable management to minimize impacting that desired flow.

I am all for good cable management as that ultimately affects (often significantly) cooling. But you can "dress-up" (route and tie-back) your cables to stay out of the air flow and still have a "tidy" looking interior.

 

Well, Bill, you surely know how to squash a girl's joy with her new toy!

I am using a Lian LI ATX case which I have bought 3 new quality case fans for with all the other components 1 x 120mm and 2 x 80mm. This is in addition to PSU, CPU and graphics fans.

I also have bought a new and legal license for W8.1 Pro.

he PSU I ended up with is a Corsair RM Series RM 550 '80+ Gold' 550W Power Supply.

The build will begin this weekend.